top of page

SEARCH RESULTS

11 items found for ""

  • Blooms & Beyond: December 2024

    December has arrived, and New England Nurseries is alive with holiday magic!   Customers are filling their carts with wreaths, trees, and unique ornaments, while our staff stays busy handcrafting porch pots and helping load up cars with seasonal treasures. The warmth and joy of the season are everywhere, making every visit a festive experience. Stop by soon to pick out your holiday favorites and let us help make your season merry and bright! New England Nurseries' Monthly Gardening Guide: December 2024 Did you know you can plant spring-flowering bulbs until the ground is frozen solid? If you can dig a hole with a shovel or spade, you can still plant! With a mild New England winter, you could potentially plant into January! With that said, it’s the perfect time to visit New England Nurseries and take advantage of great deals on our remaining bulbs. Don’t forget another important tip: keep watering your plants until the ground is completely frozen Test the soil around your plants and gardens - if it’s not frozen solid, your plants still need water. Different areas of your yard may freeze at different rates, so check various beds to make sure everything is covered. Our Top 10: Stocking Stuffers! Ever have something you are curious about, but never took the time to look up? For me, that was Christmas Stockings, until just now. What is the deal with the stockings or socks hung up on fireplaces? Christmas stockings are believed to have originated from the legend of Saint Nicholas, a 4th-century bishop known for his generosity. According to the tale, Saint Nicholas heard of a poor widower with three daughters who couldn’t afford dowries. To help, Nicholas secretly dropped gold coins down their chimney, which landed in stockings hung by the fireplace to dry. Well, that is an interesting tidbit of knowledge to share with the family during the holidays! And, with that, we'd like to share our Top 10 stocking stuffers from New England Nurseries. These small treasures are worth their weight in gold! This 4x6 Cavallini & Co 2025 planner. It's the perfect size to toss in a bag and keep with you so you never forget an appointment, meeting, or important to-do. The Cavalinni & Co mini pouch. There are so many uses for this cute canvas bag. It would make for a great pen & pencil pouch, makeup storage, travel jewelry bag, and more. A small wind chime. Perfect for an office or bedroom window. Naked Bee products. Save those hands this winter! This adorable Merry Mini Tree is by (local company) FreshCut Paper. A pair of Barebones scissors/nippers. These are perfect for the houseplant lover in your life. They are made from stainless steel, with a walnut handle, and an ambidextrous grip, they're rust-resistant and come with a 5-year warranty. How about a seed ornament for the avid Birder in your life? For the crafty ones in the family, a Rolife Dreamy Terrace Garden is a great stocking stuffer. Another one for the Birders of all ages - an Audubon stuffed bird with a real bird call. And last, but not least, a fun nature-inspired umbrella! Gardening Trends We could never give up on gardening, even in the winter. Let's dish about Dish Gardens. Dish gardens are a delightful way to bring greenery into your home, combining various small plants in a single decorative container. They’re easy to care for and offer endless design possibilities. Here's what you need to know: Dish gardens date back to Victorian times when terrariums and indoor plant arrangements became fashionable. They are excellent gifts and can be customized for any occasion with themed decorations. And, they are eco-friendly, using less water and space than traditional potted plants. Which plants to use? Choose plants with similar light and watering needs. Here are some great options: Succulents : Echeveria, jade plant, and Haworthia. Cacti : Small varieties like moon cacti or pincushion cacti. Ferns : Button fern or maidenhair fern (for higher humidity environments). Tropical Plants : Miniature versions of pothos, philodendrons, or dracaenas. Air Plants : These can be tucked into the design for a unique touch. Herbs : Parsley, thyme, or basil can work for a culinary-themed garden. How to create your very own miniature indoor garden: Select a Container : Choose a shallow dish or bowl with or without drainage holes. If there are no drainage holes, add a thick layer of pebbles or activated charcoal to the bottom to prevent root rot. Add Soil : Use a soil mix appropriate for your plants. For succulents and cacti, a fast-draining cactus mix works best. For tropical plants, use a standard potting mix. Arrange Plants : Plan your layout before planting. Place taller plants in the back or center, and use smaller plants or ground covers like moss to fill gaps. Plant : Carefully remove each plant from its pot, loosen the roots slightly, and plant it at the same depth as it was in its original pot. Decorate : Add decorative stones, moss, or small figurines to enhance the garden's aesthetic. Tips on watering and plant care: Succulents and Cacti : Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Tropical Plants and Ferns : Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Check Soil : Always check the soil moisture with your finger before watering. Lighting : Most dish gardens do well in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight unless you’re growing succulents or cacti. Humidity : Tropical plants may appreciate occasional misting. Pruning : Trim back overgrown plants to maintain balance and prevent overcrowding. Fertilizing : Feed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Did You Know? Fun Plant Facts. Aside from our fresh-cut Christmas trees, the magic moves indoors in December, where our greenhouse truly shines this season. Let's take a look at Poinsettias. We've posted about this misunderstood plant in the past, and it's worth revisiting. Fact, fiction, or old folk tale?   Are poinsettias toxic to your pets or children?  Let's look deeper at this festive, yet often avoided, flowering plant.  Poinsettias (pronounced poyn-seh-tee-uh) are indigenous to Mexico and Central America, where in hardiness zones of 9 – 11, they can grow up to 13.1 feet tall as a perennial shrub!  Known for their vibrant red petals, called bracts, Poinsettias come in a wider variety of reds, pinks, and whites.  You can even find novelty poinsettias that boast a red and white spray-painted, speckled, look.  In its native land, the poinsettia is called Flor de Nochebuena, or Christmas Eve flower.  This holiday favorite was introduced to the US in the 1820s by the first US Minister to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett. (Wikipedia, n.d.)  So, are Poinsettia toxic?  The answer is a surprising – no .  In 1919 there was one death that occurred in the vicinity of a poinsettia plant.  That implicated the plant as the cause, and from there urban legend and erroneous reporting spread the misinformation across the United States.  Since then, scientists have tried to find the toxicity threshold of the poinsettia but quit after the subject ate upward of 500 – 600 leaves with no significant ill effect.  Ingestion of the plant by humans or pets can, however, cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. ( Poison.org , n.d.)  Like any house plant, it could also pose a choking hazard.  The takeaway?  Go on out and grab yourself one of these cheery, holiday plants and display it confidently!  But, still keep it out of reach of curious little creatures.  Greenery or Gear: Product Spotlight You have to travel for the holidays but are concerned about the dry air and your precious indoor plants? Check out this wick-based watering system by Wicked Waterer. It comes with four units in a package, and all you need to do is place the spiked end into your plant’s soil and the other end into a jar or bottle of water.

  • Blooms & Beyond: May 2024

    Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  May May in Massachusetts, or all of New England, is a tough time for gardeners.  Temperatures are getting warmer, our perennials are blooming, and we want to get those annuals planted and growing.  But, the threat of overnight frost looms over us.  At least, until mid-May.  So, what can an eager gardener do? Consider planting some of your favorite annuals in large pots that can be moved into a garage or shed, if necessary.  You can also plant your annuals and cover them overnight if there is a threat of frost.  There are several products on the market to protect tender plants overnight.  These include Harvest-Guard Protective Garden Cover or burlap.  You can also use an overturned pot, bucket, or light sheet.  Just ensure whatever you use is secure enough that it won’t blow off the plant in the middle of the night. If you’re planning to sow vegetable seeds directly in your garden, early May is the time to plant your green onions, carrots, lettuce, and Swiss chard.  Mid to late May is a good time to plant pole beans, turnips, bush beans, and corn.  And, the last week of May to early June is the time to plant your vining plants such as cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins.  If you haven’t started your seeds indoors, you’ll want to purchase pre-started transplants, if you want to grow tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.  Plant those in your garden at the end of May.   Our Monthly Top 10 This month we’ll be talking about 10 easy-care shrubs that will give you immediate curb appeal with little maintenance.  Our one caveat here, is that every plant or shrub has conditions in which they thrive best.  So, follow the basic care instructions on the following shrubs and enjoy your landscaping without constantly fussing over it.  1. Spirea: Once established, spirea require little watering.  So long as they are planted in a well-draining area, they can adapt to various soil types and pH levels.  Trimming the shrub after the first bloom could potentially initiate a second bloom, and as a bonus, the foliage changes color in autumn providing fall appeal.   2. Hydrangea: Hydrangeas like hydration.  It’s in the name!  But they require little pruning.  They come in many colors and will grow in sun or shade.  Their huge, clustered blooms, provide a showy addition to your landscape.   3. Arborvitae: This evergreen shrub needs no to little pruning, and has dense foliage, making it a top pick for privacy hedging.    4. Weigela: Weigela is versatile in that it can be grown as hedges or borders, as well as, in containers.  Their showy flowers attract bees and butterflies, they like part to full sun and are deer-resistant.  5. Viburnum: These shrubs are not fussy about soil, enjoy full sun to partial shade, and their clusters of flowers smell amazing.    6. Forsythia: Once New Englanders see Forsythia in bloom, we know that Spring has finally arrived!  They sport those familiar yellow blooms, but even after bloom, they offer pretty green foliage through to autumn.  Forsythia is great as stand-alone shrubs or part of a hedge.  Fun fact, Forsythia are part of the olive family.    7. Lilac: Lilac is another Spring favorite with blooms that range from white, through shades of pink, to the familiar purple.  They like full sun and well-drained soil.  You don’t need to fertilize lilac very often.  Doing so may inhibit its flower growth.   8. Azaleas: These shrubs can live on with little to no maintenance.  They add instant yard appeal with Spring flowers that cover the entire shrub.  Azaleas come in a vast array of colors so they look great in any landscape.       9. Boxwood: Boxwood is another evergreen shrub that makes for a great stand-alone shrub, a hedge, or can be trimmed as a topiary.  They can be placed in full sun or partial shade.    10. Winterberry: If you have an area with poor drainage, Winterberry is your friend.  Winterberry is part of the Holly family and has green foliage in warmer months that turns golden in autumn.  It’s capable of growing in full shade but at the expense of flowers and berries.    Gardening Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at the growing trend of small-space gardening, such as containers and micro-gardens.  Container, vertical, and raised-bed gardening aren’t new concepts, but in the past few years they have gained in popularity and the trend continues upward.  Container and micro-gardening are a versatile way to grow herbs, veggies, and fruit in small yards, urban spaces, and even indoors.    Some of the many benefits of container gardening include: 1. Space Efficiency: Containers allow you to grow plants in small spaces like balconies, patios, decks, and rooftops.  Many edible and fruit-bearing plants grow very well in hanging baskets as well.    2. Portability: Containers are movable, allowing you to position your plants to optimize sunlight exposure and protection from harsh weather conditions.   3. Soil Control: You have complete control over the soil composition, drainage, and pH when using containers, which can be particularly advantageous for plants with specific soil requirements.   4. Weed Control: Container gardening minimizes weed growth, as the plants are isolated from the ground where weed seeds typically reside.   5. Pest Management: Containers make it easier to monitor and manage pests, as you can isolate affected plants and implement targeted pest control measures without affecting the entire garden.   6. Disease Prevention: Container gardening reduces the risk of soil-borne diseases, as you can start with fresh, sterile soil and avoid soil contamination from previous plantings.   7. Accessibility: Containers can be raised to a comfortable height, reducing the need for bending or kneeling, which makes gardening more accessible for individuals with mobility issues.   8. Season Extension: Containers can be moved indoors during colder weather, extending the growing season for certain plants and allowing you to enjoy fresh produce year-round.   9. Aesthetic Appeal: Containers come in various sizes, shapes, and materials, allowing you to create visually appealing arrangements that complement your outdoor or indoor living space.   10. Experimentation: Container gardening provides an opportunity to experiment with different plant varieties and growing techniques, enabling you to learn and adapt your gardening practices based on your experiences.   Need some ideas on where to get started?  If you want to try out large pots, try strawberries, bush tomatoes, bush beans, peppers, garlic, eggplant, spinach, or lettuce.  If you have a bunch of old flower pots hanging around, decorate your outdoor surfaces with little herb and tea gardens.  And, to try your hand at hanging baskets, try out strawberries, vining tomatoes, peas or beans, cucumbers, or lettuce.  An important note about container gardening – in the heat of summer the soil can dry faster than traditional gardens.  You may need to water your plants more than once per day, so monitor them closely.   Did You Know? - Fun Plant Facts Scientists have discovered a fascinating interaction between flowers and bees.  We know that bees eat nectar (for energy) and pollen (for protein and nutrients), and the beneficial side effect is cross-pollination, but there is so much more happening when that interaction occurs. Dr. Gregory Sutton, and his team, at the University of Bristol in the UK, studied the interaction more closely and found that flowers are negatively charged by the air around them at about 30 volts.  And bees, flapping their wings at around 200 beats per second, build up a positive charge.  When a bee gets close to a flower there is an electrical interaction between the two.  The pollen in the flower is attracted to the hairs on the bee's body via static electricity and jumps onto the bee.  Another interesting fact is that, for a short time after a bee visits a flower, the negative and positive charges cancel each other out.  When another bee draws near that flower, it can sense that the flower has no electric charge at that time and moves on to another flower.    To learn more, go to Sciencefriday.com ( https://www.sciencefriday.com/educational-resources/bumblebee-static-electricity/ ) or NPR.org ( https://tinyurl.com/muwwnpcr ) and to watch (and hear) the interaction take place check out the YouTube video by David Attenborough ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee381dCP6JM ). Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month’s spotlight is on an interesting and versatile houseplant – the Staghorn Fern.  Staghorn Ferns are epiphytes, which means they grow on other plants without harming them.  Aside from their unique antler-like look, being epiphytes, they can be mounted on wooden plants or other wooden features such as large branches.  This gives them a living art or living sculpture esthetic.  When well cared for they can live for decades.  In hot and humid landscapes, such as Florida, they can grow outside and have been recorded as large as 10 feet wide and 6 feet tall.  Aside from their unique look, they are excellent air purifiers and remove toxins and pollutants from their surroundings.  They thrive in indirect, bright light, and have specific watering needs.  We have many interesting specimens in stock now, come check them out!

  • Preserving and Storing Tender Bulbs

    Dig Up and Clean Bulbs Timing: Dig up tender bulbs (e.g., dahlias, cannas, gladiolus) after the first light frost when the foliage begins to wither. Cleaning: Gently shake off excess soil and remove any remaining foliage. Avoid washing the bulbs, as excess moisture can lead to rot.   Cure the Bulbs Curing Process: Lay the bulbs in a single layer in a dry, well-ventilated area for 1-2 weeks. This step allows the outer skins to dry and toughen, which helps prevent rot during storage. Ideal Conditions: Cure the bulbs in a spot with good air circulation and temperatures around 60-70°F (15-21°C).   Inspect and Prepare Bulbs for Storage Inspection: Discard any bulbs that show signs of mold, rot, or pest damage. Dusting with Fungicide (Optional): To prevent fungal growth, dust bulbs with a fungicide powder before storing.   Pack the Bulbs Material: Use paper bags, mesh bags, or cardboard boxes lined with newspaper. Avoid plastic containers or sealed bags, as they trap moisture and cause rot. Insulating Medium: Place bulbs in layers with peat moss, vermiculite, sawdust, or dry sand to help absorb excess moisture and keep them dry.   Store in an Appropriate Location Temperature: Store bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry place with a temperature range of 35-50°F (1-10°C). Basements, unheated garages, or root cellars are often ideal locations. Humidity: Ensure the storage area has moderate humidity to prevent bulbs from drying out or becoming too moist. Air Circulation: Maintain good ventilation to prevent mold and mildew.   Monitor Bulbs Periodically Check Monthly: Inspect the bulbs every few weeks to ensure they are firm and free from rot or mold. Adjust Moisture: If the bulbs are drying out, lightly mist the insulating medium to add a bit of moisture. If mold is present, remove affected bulbs and increase ventilation. Prepare for Planting Rehydrate (Optional): Before planting in spring, some gardeners soak bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate them. Plan Early Planting: Once the danger of frost has passed, plant the bulbs in the garden according to their specific growing requirements.

  • Planting in the Fall: Cold-Stratified Plants

    Did you know that some plants require a period of cold in order to thrive?  Thus, they are best planted in the fall.  The process is called cold stratification.  Read on to learn more and check out which plants you should be planting this fall.   Cold stratification is a process that mimics the natural winter conditions many plant seeds need to break dormancy and germinate successfully in the spring.  In Massachusetts, the cold winters naturally provide the necessary conditions for these seeds.  Here is a list of plant seeds that typically require cold stratification:   Perennial Flowers and Wildflowers Milkweed (Asclepias spp.)  Essential for monarch butterflies; seeds need cold stratification for 30-60 days. Lupines (Lupinus spp.)  Requires stratification for 30-60 days for better germination rates. Echinacea (Coneflowers, Echinacea spp.)  Seeds should be cold stratified for 30-90 days. Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)  Cold stratification for 30-60 days improves germination. Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)  Needs 3-4 weeks of cold stratification for optimal germination. Penstemon (Penstemon spp.)  Typically needs 30-60 days of stratification. Poppies (Papaver spp.)  Some varieties benefit from cold stratification for 30 days. Primrose (Primula spp.)  Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Baptisia (False Indigo)  Needs cold stratification for 4-6 weeks. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)  Cold stratify for about 30 days for best results. Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium spp.)  Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)  Requires cold stratification for about 60 days. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)  Needs cold stratification for 30-60 days.   Native Grasses Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)  Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)  Cold stratify for 30-60 days. Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis)  Benefits from cold stratification for 30 days. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)  Requires cold stratification for about 30 days.   Trees and Shrubs Redbud (Cercis canadensis)  Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)  Requires 60-90 days of stratification. Maple (Acer spp.)  Many species require 40-90 days of cold stratification. Dogwood (Cornus spp.)  Seeds need 90-120 days of cold stratification. Hazelnut (Corylus spp.)  Requires 90-120 days of cold stratification. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)  Needs a longer cold stratification period of 90-120 days. Oak (Quercus spp.)  Acorns often require 30-60 days of cold stratification.   Herbs Lavender (Lavandula spp.)  Some varieties require 30-40 days of cold stratification. Echinacea (Coneflower)  Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Angelica (Angelica archangelica)  Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Asparagus  Plant crowns or seeds in the fall for establishment over winter. Rhubarb  Plant crowns in the fall; they will establish roots over winter.   Vegetables        (These plants don’t require  cold stratification in order to germinate properly, but they could overwinter nicely for an early harvest!) Garlic  Plant cloves in the fall for a summer harvest. Onions (Sets or Seeds) Fall planting can lead to larger bulbs in the spring. Shallots  Similar to garlic, plant in the fall for a summer harvest. Carrots  Some varieties can be planted in the fall and overwintered for an early spring harvest. Spinach  Cold-hardy and will often overwinter for early spring growth. Kale  Can be planted in late fall; it will grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool. Radishes  Some varieties can be sown in the fall and harvested before the ground freezes or in early spring. Turnips  Sow seeds in late summer to early fall for a fall harvest or overwintering. Cover Crops Winter Rye  Excellent for soil improvement and erosion control; plant in late fall. Crimson Clover  Adds nitrogen to the soil and protects it over winter. Field Peas  A legume that fixes nitrogen and provides organic matter. Hairy Vetch  Fixes nitrogen and adds biomass to the soil.

  • Blooms & Beyond: October 2024

    Blooms & Beyond:  Insights from New England Nurseries October 2024    Sweater-weather is quickly approaching.  But, before you pack up your gardening gear and head inside, keep in mind that autumn is a great time to plan (and plant) for the spring.  You’ll want to get your spring blooming bulbs in the ground, as well as replace any trees or shrubs that didn’t fair well over the Summer.  Lastly, you’ll want to check out the areas in the lawn where you need to repair or replace damaged or dead grass.  Keep reading for more fall to-dos!   New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  October October in Massachusetts is an excellent time to prepare your garden for the upcoming winter and ensure a healthy start for the next growing season. Here are some gardening tasks to focus on: Plant Spring-Blooming Bulbs Bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths should be planted now to ensure a vibrant spring display. Plant them in well-drained soil, about 2-3 times the depth of the bulb's height. Divide and Transplant Perennials Divide overgrown perennials like hostas, daylilies, irises, and peonies. October’s cooler weather is ideal for dividing and moving plants, allowing them to establish roots before winter. Mulch Garden Beds Add a layer of mulch (2-3 inches) around your garden beds to protect plants from temperature fluctuations and conserve moisture. Mulching also helps prevent soil erosion during winter rains and snow. Clean Up Annuals and Weeds Pull out spent annuals and vegetable plants, as they can harbor diseases and pests. Remove invasive weeds to prevent them from overwintering and spreading in the spring. Plant Garlic October is the best time to plant garlic in Massachusetts. Plant cloves pointy-side up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Garlic will develop roots over the winter and be ready to harvest by mid-summer. Protect Tender Perennials Bring in any tender plants like herbs, tropicals, and container plants before the first frost. Plant Trees and Shrubs October is a great time to plant trees and shrubs, giving them time to establish roots before winter. Make sure to water them well until the ground freezes. Cut Back Dead and Diseased Foliage Prune back any dead or diseased foliage on perennials to prevent the spread of disease next year. However, leave ornamental grasses and seed heads like coneflowers for winter interest and wildlife.   Prepare the Lawn Overseed or fertilize the lawn if needed. Use a slow-release fertilizer designed for fall, which helps the grass recover from summer stress and strengthens roots for winter. Keep mowing until the grass stops growing, typically when temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. Wrap Young Trees Protect the bark of young or newly planted trees from winter damage by wrapping them with tree guards or burlap. Water Well Before Frost Give your plants a deep watering before the first frost, especially perennials and newly planted trees/shrubs. This helps them enter winter with a healthy moisture level.      Our Monthly Top 10: October is the favorite month for many.  Is it the cooler weather?  The pumpkin spice?  Or perhaps Halloween?  It’s probably different for everyone, but we definitely have several great reasons to love fall at New England Nurseries.  And, those reasons will be this month’s top 10!      1.      This cute little jack-o-lantern guy. Perfect for the garden or porch;   2.      Selecting the perfect pumpkin to bring your carving vision to life.;   3.      The beautiful colors and jewel-like appearance of ornamental corn;   4.      This huge skeleton.  He is ready for Halloween.   5.      Mums.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and colors;   6.      Giant fuzzy spiders;   7.      A new wreath for the front door;   8.      Porch displays with corn stalks and hay bales;   9.      Small, funky gourds; and   10.  New door mats with adorable fall vibes.         Current Gardening Trends   This month we’re focusing on outdoor kitchens.  Because, we all know that food tastes better outdoors!   Outdoor kitchens are a popular home addition that extends the living space into the garden, providing a seamless blend of indoor and outdoor environments.  With features like built-in grills, countertops, sinks, and even pizza ovens, outdoor kitchens are designed to make cooking and entertaining outside more convenient and enjoyable.  One of the primary benefits is the social aspect - they create a natural gathering point for family and friends, enhancing the overall entertainment experience.  Cooking outdoors can also reduce indoor heat and energy costs during warmer months.  Additionally, outdoor kitchens add aesthetic appeal and increase property value by turning a backyard into a functional and versatile space, making them an investment that combines practicality with luxury.     Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts   Since it’s October and we’re surrounded by pumpkins at New England Nurseries, let’s take a deeper look at what makes them fun and unique.  First off, pumpkins are technically a fruit.  They receive this botanical classification because they contain seeds and develop from the flowering part of the plant. Interestingly, pumpkins were once used to remove freckles.  While we’re not sure if they can completely eliminate freckles, pumpkins do contain an enzyme that makes them perfect for exfoliating face masks. The largest pumpkin ever recorded was grown in Italy in 2021 and weighed a staggering 2,702 pounds. There are over 45 different varieties of pumpkins, ranging from the small and sweet ‘Sugar Pie’ to the enormous ‘Atlantic Giant.’  They also come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and colors - including blue, white, and even green.  Despite their dense appearance, pumpkins are made up of 90% water, which makes them low in calories and hydrating.  And lastly, pumpkin flowers are edible.  They’re often used in salads, stir-fried, deep-fried, or added to soups.  The flowers are said to have a mild, sweet flavor.      Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight   As you bring your plants inside, you’ll want to give them a good check over.  It’s probably a good time to give all over your indoor plants a look over.  What you are looking for are any signs of insect infestation.  Signs of an indoor plant insect infestation can include yellowing or wilting leaves, tiny holes or spots on the foliage, and sticky residue on leaves or surrounding surfaces. You might also notice webbing, a cotton-like substance, or visible insects like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies on the undersides of leaves or near the soil. Additionally, stunted growth or distorted leaves can indicate the presence of pests feeding on the plant’s nutrients.   Should you find any issues, you’ll want to use a Horticultural Spray Oil, Neem Oil, or Insecticidal Soap to rid your plant of pests.  Products like Neem Oil are also effective against powdery mildew and rust.

  • Blooms & Beyond: November 2024

    New England Nurseries’ Monthly Gardening Guide:  November The cold weather is starting to creep in, but it's not too late to finish your gardening tasks. There's still time to plant and fertilize, and don't forget to keep watering your plants! Read on for your November garden tasks. ·        Storing spring-flowering bulbs:  If you’ve dug up your spring-flowering bulbs, but aren’t sure what to do with them next, check out our Bulb Storing Guide.    ·        Keep watering:  This task is important , ongoing, and often overlooked!  Once temperatures start to drop, so does watering.  If the ground is not frozen, your plants are still taking up water.  They won’t need as much water as they do in summer, but you should aim for 1” per week.  Rain gauges can be helpful for this information.   ·        Cut back perennials:  Now that we’ve had a few killing frosts, and foliage is wilting and yellowed, it’s time to tidy the remainder of the garden.  Cutting back perennials in the fall helps maintain a tidy garden, prevents disease, and pests, and promotes healthy growth for the next season.   Use sharp, clean pruners to cut stems down to about 2-3 inches above the ground.  One note, however, avoid cutting back beneficial perennials like coneflowers (Echinacea) and ornamental grasses, as they can be left for winter interest and to provide food for birds.    ·        Weed the garden:  While this task may seem like a spring activity, it’s best to pull up those remaining weeds now.  By doing this, you’ll keep them from coming up stronger in the spring.   ·        Fertilize:  November is a great time to fertilize the grass and garden if you haven’t yet.  Extended forecasts show potential for precipitation this month as well as some milder temperatures here and there.  But don’t delay much longer as winter is on its way soon.   ·        Prepare and put away pots and tools:  For those pots that you didn’t bring inside already, you’ll want to remove any dead plant debris and store the soil (if no plant disease was present).  This is especially important for your ceramic and clay pots as they could break if not stored empty.  And, as always, make sure your tools are clean and stored properly, and they’ll serve you for a very long time.   ·        Protect your shrubs throughout the winter:  There are several ways to winterize your shrubs.  If in a particularly vulnerable area, such as near an overhang, protect with a wooden A-frame, that will shield your shrubs from heavy snow and icicles.  Other ways to protect sensitive or exposed shrubs are to: ·        Wrap them in burlap or breathable plant fabric to shield against windburn and frost damage.  Secure the burlap with twine or stakes to keep it in place, but make sure not to wrap it too tightly, as this can restrict airflow. ·        Tie up branches to prevent snow damage.  For shrubs with multiple stems or delicate branches (e.g., arborvitae), gently tie them together with soft twine or garden tape to prevent branches from splaying under heavy snow.  Start from the bottom and work upward, ensuring the branches are secured but not overly tight.     Our Monthly Top 10: With our Christmas Trees ready to arrive in a few short weeks.  Let’s take a look at 10 trees that have been used as Christmas Trees throughout history in New England.    1.       Fraser Fir:  Pronounced (FRA-zure), the Fraser Fir has short, soft needles with a silvery underside, strong branches, and excellent needle retention.  Fraser’s have a strong and pleasant fragrance and is a top choice based on its symmetrical shape and long-lasting freshness.   2.       Balsam Fir:  Balsams have dark green needles, dense foliage, and a traditional shape.  They are very fragrant and are often associated with the classic Christmas tree smell.  These trees are known for holding their needles well.   3.       Cook Blue Balsam Fir:  These trees are celebrated for their striking blue-green needles and pleasant, classic balsam scent, perfect for holiday displays or year-round landscaping.  They have soft, aromatic needles and a natural, full shape, making them an excellent choice for Christmas trees that retain their freshness throughout the season.   4.       Douglas Fir:  Douglas Fir Trees are soft, shiny green needles that radiate in all directions.  They have a sweet and subtle fragrance.  They are loved for their full, bushy appearance and strong branches.    5.       White Pine:  White Pines have long, soft blue-green needles, and flexible branches.  They have a light pine scent and are chosen for their soft texture.  Their branches are, however, not ideal for heavy ornaments.   6.       Scotch Pine:  Scotch Pines have stiff, medium-length needles with good color retention and a fresh pine scent.  They are known for their excellent needle retention, even as the tree dries out.   7.       Blue Spruce:  Blue Spruce Trees have stiff, silvery-blue needles and strong branches.  They have a mild fragrance and are valued for their unique color and sturdy branches that hold ornaments well.   8.       Concolor Fir:  Concolors have soft, bluish-green needles with a citrusy fragrance.  They are increasing in popularity for their unique scent and long needle retention.   9.       Noble Fir:  The Noble Fir has stiff branches and blue-green needles with an upward curve.  They have a strong and pleasant fragrance and are considered one of the best for their sturdy branches and elegant appearance.   10.   Canaan Fir:  The Canaan Fir is a hybrid of balsam and Fraser firs, with traits from both.  The fragrance is similar to a balsam, and it possesses good needle retention.     This Month’s “ Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts ” is a pop quiz.  Considering what you've just learned about popular Christmas trees and their characteristics, which type of tree would you classify the iconic Charlie Brown Christmas Tree as?   Current Gardening Trends:   Leaving the leaves.  There has been an increase in chatter about gardeners leaving the rake in the garden shed and letting nature take its course.  Let’s take a deeper look into a few of the ecological and practical benefits of leaving the leaves in the garden. ·        Natural Mulch and Soil Enrichment:  As leaves decompose, they release nutrients back into the soil, enriching it naturally without the need for synthetic fertilizers.  A layer of leaves helps retain soil moisture by reducing evaporation, which is beneficial for plant roots.  Leaves can inhibit the growth of weeds by blocking sunlight.   ·        Wildlife Habitat and Biodiversity:  Many beneficial insects, such as beetles, spiders, and caterpillars, use fallen leaves for shelter during the colder months.  Additionally, some pollinators, like certain species of butterflies and moths, overwinter in leaf litter at various life stages (as eggs, larvae, or pupae).    ·        Soil Health and Structure:  Decomposing leaves foster a rich environment for soil-dwelling organisms like earthworms and beneficial microbes, which help maintain healthy soil structure.  A layer of leaves can also protect the soil from wind and water erosion, preserving the garden's topsoil and preventing nutrient loss.   ·        Reduced Garden Maintenance:  By leaving leaves in the garden, you save time and effort compared to raking, bagging, and disposing of them.   ·        Environmental Benefits:  Instead of bagging leaves and sending them to landfills where they decompose anaerobically and produce methane, leaving them in place or composting them reduces waste.  Avoiding the use of leaf blowers or other motorized equipment also helps reduce emissions and noise pollution.   While all of that sounds great, there are some potential downsides to consider.  ·        Damage to Grass and Small Plants:  A thick layer of leaves can create a barrier that blocks sunlight and air circulation, potentially smothering grass and low-growing plants.  This can lead to dead spots or stunted growth in the spring.  Excessive moisture trapped under a dense layer of leaves can encourage fungal growth and root rot in plants that don’t tolerate overly wet conditions.   ·        Pest Habitat:  While leaves provide a winter habitat for beneficial insects, they can also attract and shelter harmful pests, such as slugs, snails, and certain rodents, which may damage plants when they become active.  Also, leaves from trees or plants infected with certain diseases (e.g., leaf spot or mildew) can harbor pathogens that may re-infect plants in the following season.   ·        Appearance and Garden Aesthetics:  Large leaves like those from sycamores or oaks decompose slowly and may remain on the ground longer than desired, delaying spring clean-up.   ·        Potential Impact on Lawns:  If leaves are left in thick layers on grassy areas, they can block sunlight and airflow, leading to yellowing or dying patches of grass.  The buildup of organic material can contribute to a thick thatch layer, which may hinder new grass growth.   So how do you decide which is the best practice for you?  It comes down to strategy and choice.  While it’s beneficial to leave leaves in garden beds and under trees, consider clearing pathways and grassy areas to prevent smothering the grass.  If you have an abundance of leaves, adding some to your compost pile can enhance your compost with nutrient-rich organic matter.  Spread leaves in thin layers to promote faster decomposition and reduce potential smothering.  And avoid leaving leaves from plants with known diseases or pests to prevent re-infestation.   Greenery or Gear:  Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight Summit Sticky Traps for Houseplants As you've moved your potted plants indoors and humidity levels decrease with winter approaching, you may notice an uptick in gnats, whiteflies, and aphids on your indoor plants. There are several effective solutions to address this issue, and one of our favorites is Summit Sticky Traps. These traps work quickly and effectively, are non-toxic, and are free from pesticides.

  • Blooms & Beyond: September 2024

    Summer isn’t over yet.  While Labor Day marks the end of the season for some, it technically doesn’t end until Sunday, September 22nd.  There is still much to do including some vegetable planting!  Read on to find out what you should put on your lawn and garden to-do list this month.   New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  September Lawn Care:  One of the many benefits of working in a Garden Center is learning insider tips and tricks that you might not have otherwise come across when searching for answers online.  One such tip I learned recently is that the fall is a great time to treat your lawn for weeds.  I had been taught that you do this task in the spring, which you absolutely can continue to do if that is your practice.  However, if you allow late summer weeds to overwinter, they may come back bigger and stronger in the spring.  Best to take care of them now.  But, know that you will want any weed control to be active for a month before you seed/overseed your lawn.  Otherwise, the weed killer can inhibit the germination and growth of young grass.    Your other fall lawn tasks include aeration, overseeding, and fertilizing.  Aeration reduces soil compaction, allows roots to breathe and grow stronger, and fertilizers will have a greater impact.  When overseeding your lawn, you’ll want to choose a quality seed that can stand up to New England’s weather conditions.  We recommend Jonathan Green Black Beauty seed as it roots deeply (up to 4 feet), is disease-resistant, drought tolerant, and contains Endophytes for natural insect resistance.  We typically use a starter fertilizer at the time of seeding.  We carry Greenview and Scott’s Starter Fertilizers. After your new grass has had time to germinate (around 4 – 6 weeks) it is time to add a more nutrient-rich fertilizer.  We recommend Espoma or Greenview lawn care products.  Lastly, when leaves begin dropping, be sure to remove them so they don’t smother your grass.   Pruning:  Pruning in the fall should be done with care, as improper timing can lead to damage or reduced blooms for the following year.  However, some shrubs and trees can be pruned in the fall.  The following list includes some common shrubs and trees that can benefit from some fall pruning.  Avoid heavy pruning for most trees and shrubs, as it can stimulate new growth that may not harden off before winter, leading to damage.  The focus is on the removal of dead, diseased, or damaged branches, as well as crossing branches that may cause problems later.    ·        Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens and Hydrangea paniculata):   Prune these types of hydrangeas in the fall after they have finished blooming.  Avoid pruning Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea) in the fall, as it blooms on old wood.  Not sure which variety of hydrangea you have?  Email us an image of one of its blooms to info@newenglandnurseries.com and we’ll help you out.    ·        Roses (Rosa species):  Prune hybrid tea roses and other repeat-blooming roses lightly in the fall, mainly to remove any dead or diseased wood.  Save heavy pruning for early spring.   ·        Spirea (Spiraea japonica):  Prune to remove dead or weak growth and shape the shrub.   ·        Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa):  Light pruning in the fall can help maintain the shape and remove dead or diseased branches.   ·        Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia):  Prune lightly after flowering to remove spent blooms and thin out older growth.   ·        Maple (Acer species):  Light pruning can be done in the fall to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches, but heavy pruning should be done in late winter or early spring.   ·        Oak (Quercus species):  If necessary, prune in late fall to reduce the risk of oak wilt disease, which can be transmitted by insects attracted to fresh wounds.   ·        Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos):  Prune to remove any suckers or watersprouts.   ·        Birch (Betula species):  Like maples, light pruning can be done in the fall to remove dead or damaged branches.   ·        Sumac (Rhus species):  Prune to maintain shape and remove any unwanted suckers.   If you have any questions about when to prune a specific tree or shrub that you purchased here, please feel free to contact us!    Garden Maintenance:  You will want to harvest any remaining summer veggies like tomatoes, peppers, and squash.  And, you can still plant cool-season crops like kale, spinach, and lettuce.  These plants are both fast-growing and cold-tolerant.  Divide and transplant spring and summer-blooming perennials. Protect your shrubs and perennials from the cold of winter by adding a layer of mulch.  Mulching will also help to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.  Remove spent annuals and weeds from flower beds to prepare them for winter.  Start planting spring-blooming bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and crocuses.  And, trim back perennials after they have finished blooming.   Early fall is a good time to plant trees and shrubs.  The cooler temps don’t stress the plants quite as much as transplanting in the heat of summer.  And it gives them time to establish roots before winter.    Other important garden-related tasks for this month include cleaning and storing garden tools.  A wise man once told me (many, many times – love you Gramps!) that if you take care of your tools, your tools will take care of you.  So, make sure you clean, sharpen, prepare, and store your summer tools.  Turn over your compost pile, and add leaves and garden debris.  If you don’t have a compost pile, it’s never too late to start one!  Keep an eye on the weather for the first frost dates of the season, and be ready to cover your tender plants.    Our Monthly Top 10 September is National Honey Month!  So, let’s focus on bee and pollinator-loving plants that bloom thoughout this month.  New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae):  Vibrant purple flowers, a favorite of bees and butterflies. 2.      Goldenrod ( Solidago spp. ): Bright yellow flowers, highly attractive to bees and butterflies. 3.      Joe-Pye Weed ( Eutrochium purpureum ): Tall plant with clusters of pinkish-purple flowers, a magnet for butterflies. 4.      Sedum ( Sedum spp. ): Succulent with clusters of small, star-shaped flowers in pink, red, or white, popular with bees. 5.      Black-eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia hirta ): Bright yellow petals with a dark center, attracting bees and butterflies. 6.      Cardinal Flower ( Lobelia cardinalis ): Striking red flowers, particularly attractive to hummingbirds. 7.      Coneflower ( Echinacea purpurea ): Pinkish-purple flowers with a prominent cone, a favorite of bees and butterflies. 8.      Mountain Mint ( Pycnanthemum spp. ): Small, pale flowers with a strong minty fragrance, highly attractive to a wide range of pollinators. 9.      Ironweed ( Vernonia noveboracensis ): Tall plant with deep purple flowers, popular with bees and butterflies. 10.   Boneset ( Eupatorium perfoliatum ): White, fluffy flowers that bloom late in the season, attracting various pollinators.       Current Gardening Trends With fall just around the corner, it’s a great time to start looking at fall containers.  Fall containers are a great way to add interest and color to your porch or deck.  Our staff is available to assist you in plant and pot selection for your own custom porch pot.  To get started on this fun and unique DIY adventure, take a look at some guidelines below.   Consider the Weather:  As you're planting late in the growing season, you can focus on short-term goals without worrying too much about long-term planning.  Pay attention to which plants perform well as temperatures drop, and remove any struggling annuals.   Choose your Plants: Many fall plants can handle freezing temperatures, making cold-tolerant annuals or perennials great choices.   Consider using this formula: A Thriller:  A tall plant with eye-catching blooms or unique textures to stand out among other plants.  This plant should be placed in the back, or middle, of the planter.  Avoid the edges so you don’t block smaller plants.   A Filler: A medium-sized plant that complements or contrasts with the thriller, filling in around its base.   A Spiller: A trailing plant that cascades over the sides of the container, softening its edges. This could be a flowering plant or attractive foliage. Other excellent options include cabbage, kale, heather, and lantanas.   Group Containers:  Arrange several containers with single plants to form a larger display. Grouping containers can also transform the look of a space, such as a deck, porch, or yard. Rearrange them as needed to showcase the best-looking plants as others fade.   Lastly, Incorporate Other Elements:  Enhance your arrangements by adding plant material from your garden.  For a cohesive look, consider limiting your color palette to shades like purple, burgundy, orange, and yellow.   Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts This month we’re going to look a little deeper into what makes Sunflowers unique.  The centers of sunflowers are made up of thousands of tiny flowers.  Naturally, this makes them great pollinators.  They are known for their Heliotropism, which means track the sun as it moves across the sky.  They do this until they are mature, and then they face east permanently.  There are 67 different species of sunflowers.  They vary in height, endurance, flower shape, and color – including brown, red, and purple.  Every part of a sunflower is edible, with the seeds being the most popular part of the plant.  A single sunflower can produce up to 2,000 seeds.  Sunflowers symbolize joy, happiness, and positivity; and can be used as gifts to express love, friendship, and general well wishes.  Last fun fact: Sunflowers have been used to soak up nuclear radiation.  Now that is one interesting plant! Greenery or Gear:  Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight It’s time to aerate your lawn!  Aerating your lawn has many benefits including reducing soil compaction, improving air exchange, promoting stronger roots for a thicker lawn, and enhancing water and fertilizer uptake.  We love these Terra Verde Spiked Shoes.  They strap onto your existing shoes and have 24, 2” spikes! Enjoy plant sales and events? Click the icons below to join our socials and always be in the know!

  • Blooms & Beyond: July 2024

    New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide: July During the summertime, many plants have a more active growing period.  They will need a bit more help in the form of fertilizer whether this is a liquid fertilizer mixed into your plant's water or slow-release granules sprinkled around the plants or trees' drip line. Doing this once a month can help your plants thrive. But remember during periods of high heat avoid fertilizing, especially with granules.   If the weather hasn’t been very cooperative by providing rainwater, you’ll need to supplement hydration by watering your plants.  Read on for general watering guidelines. In general, plants need about one inch of water per week, but the amount can vary depending on the species and variety.  For example, smaller plants may need 1–2 gallons, larger shrubs may need 3–5 gallons, and 15-gallon plants may need 10 gallons each time.  In extremely hot weather, you may need to water daily or every other day.  Plants in patio pots or hanging baskets may need twice daily watering as they can dry out faster. It's better to water plants deeply a couple of times a week instead of a little bit each day.  This helps plants develop strong root systems that will reach further down into the ground to find additional water.   You can let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings. Water slowly and deeply, aiming to get water a few inches down into the soil.  You can use a moisture meter to test the soil moisture.  You can also try the finger dip test, pushing your finger into the soil until you reach your knuckle. If the soil feels dry, it's time to water. Other tips: Keep the foliage dry.  Don't overwater, as this can be just as damaging as underwatering.   Roots also need air, so don't keep the soil saturated with water all the time.                             Our Monthly Top 10 July brings hotter days, so we will look at some drought-tolerant plants that fare well despite the heat. Many of these plants do not need to be watered as often as others but don’t forget new plantings, no matter the type, need plenty of water while they establish their roots. 1.      Coneflower:  Coneflowers are perennials that bloom in mid-summer and continue to bloom until frost. Once established they can be watered at least once a week depending on the weather.   2.      Catmint:  Catmint is a full-sun perennial that tolerates shade.  They need minimal supplementary watering, except during long dry spells when you’ll want to give them more water. It is clear when catmint is over-watered as it displays yellow leaves and limp stems.   3.      Salvia:  Salvia is a full-sun flowering annual. When watering it is best to water deeply but not too often, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. This prevents root rot from occurring.   4.      Lavender:  Lavenders are a full-sun perennial herb that prefers well-draining soil.  These plants also grow well in pots.  Water lavender every two to three weeks but during periods of flowering water once a week or more.   5.      Geranium: Geraniums are full-sun annuals.  Once established they need to be watered about one to two times a week.  Water when the soil feels dry as geraniums do not like to be soggy and overwatering is a common mistake.   6.      Butterfly bush:  Butterfly bushes are woody perennials that need full- sun and well-draining soil. Like salvia, butterfly bushes should be watered deeply but make sure not to overwater them.   7.      Hosta:  Hostas are shade perennials that can tolerate morning sun.  They need to be soaked once a week and increase watering to twice a week during dry spells.   8.      Marigolds:  Marigolds are easy-to-grow annuals that thrive in full sun.  Keep their soil moist by giving them a thorough watering once a week.  They will need more water when the soil feels dry.    9.      Angelonia:  Angelonia is a full-sun, flowering annual.  Make sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy, and water them when the top of the soil feels dry.   10.  Vinca:  Vincas are annuals that prefer full sun and can last till fall.  But, once the cold sets in they die off.  Water when the top one to two inches of soil is dry.  Water earlier in the day so the soil can dry out slightly overnight.  They benefit from regular watering, especially during dry spells but can be watered less during rainy seasons.     Planting Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at meadow gardening or meadow lawns.  Meadow gardens are areas filled with native and pollinator-friendly plants.  Plants are arranged together to create a natural look.  Unlike traditional garden beds or landscaping, meadow gardens do not have mulched areas between plants.  Along with flowers and flowering plants, native grasses are a good addition and help make it look like a true meadow.  A similar look can also be achieved by prepping an area of dirt and spreading wildflower seeds, letting nature decide how your garden will look.  Some plants to include are: ·        Butterfly Weed ·        Bee Balm ·        Foxgloves ·        Coneflower ·        Big Bluestem ·        Switchgrass ·        Swamp Milkweed There are several benefits to having a meadow garden, not only do they have a unique look, but they also help the local environment, as they maintain a smaller environmental footprint.  Flower meadows attract and provide food for many pollinators and birds.  They also help with stormwater runoff as the deep roots of native plants assist in soil retention.  Planting native plants and grasses can also help with the overall soil health.   Did You Know? – Fun Plant Facts                             Did you know that butterfly wings are clear?  Yup, butterfly wings are clear.  The pigments we see are microscopic scales, that sit on the wings and reflect the light.  The scales create patterns that help camouflage the butterfly and attract mates.  The ‘dust’ you get on your fingers when you touch the wings of a butterfly or moth are in actuality tiny scales.  More cool facts about butterflies to follow. Butterflies taste with their feet.  They have taste sensors on their feet, allowing them to taste the leaves they land on. This helps them find the right plants to lay their eggs on.  They are cold-blooded and rely on the warmth of the sun to fly.  They often bask in the sun to increase their body temperature.   Monarch butterflies are serious about their migration.  These hearty butterflies travel from North America to central Mexico, covering up to 3,000 miles throughout their journey.    There are about 17,500 species of butterflies in the world, with the greatest diversity found in tropical rainforests.  Some butterflies lay their eggs on one specific plant that changes from species to species, one example is the black swallowtails that often lay their eggs on Parsley, Dill, and Queen Anne’s Lace plants.  The largest butterfly species is the female Queen Alexandra birdwings, they can measure up to 27 centimeters and are found in Papua New Guinea.  The smallest species is the western pygmy blue which is measured to have a wingspan of 2 inches. Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month's spotlight is on marigolds!  These flowers also made an appearance on our top 10 drought-tolerant plants, so here's a bit more about them.  They are fast-growing and drought-tolerant, which means they have a full look soon after planting, and are great for new gardeners.  They are also a fun pop of color with vibrant yellows and oranges and a unique blossom shape.  Marigolds also attract insects such as ladybugs, and other predatory bugs that will help with removing insects that would be harmful to your garden.  Bees are also attracted to them, so if you are looking for a way to help (and increase the number of pollinators) your garden marigolds are a great way.  They might attract the good bugs but they can also deter the bad ones, they release a natural oil that has an odor that several insects are deterred by, such as mosquitos. They work great in pots no matter their size, they can also be used as border plants.                                                                                              Do you enjoy plant-related sales and events? Don't miss out! Click below to join our Socials and always know what's happening!

  • Blooms & Beyond: March 2024

    Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries This month we'll be covering seed-starting.   Embarking on the journey of seed starting is an exciting endeavor for gardeners of all levels. Whether you're nurturing delicious culinary herbs or cultivating hearty vegetable plants, the process requires patience, attention to detail, and a basic understanding of the region's unique climate and growing conditions. In this guide, we'll explore the essentials of herb and vegetable seed starting, from selecting the right seeds to nurturing seedlings through to transplanting.    Understanding what Hardiness Zones are and why they matter:   Hardiness zones serve as a valuable tool for gardeners to make informed decisions about plant selection, timing, and garden management practices based on the climatic conditions of their specific region.  By understanding and working within their hardiness zone, gardeners can create thriving and resilient gardens, despite variable weather conditions.   In the colder inland climates of Massachusetts, starting seeds indoors can be the key to getting a decent harvest from warmer weather crops, that require longer growing periods, such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and gourds.   According to the newly updated, 2023 USDA Hardiness Zone map, Bedford is currently in Zone 6B.  The towns surrounding Bedford are also in Zone 6B, except for Carlisle, which starts to dip down into 6A to the West.    When you’re dealing with more permanent yard features such as perennial plants, shrubs, and trees, knowing your Hardiness Zone will help you to know which plants will thrive in your area, as well as winter survivability.  Zone 6B, has an average annual extreme minimum temperature (over the past 10 years) of -5 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit.  It’s worth noting that this is an average and not the lowest temperature that has ever occurred or might occur.    Where we can use this information in planning our gardens, and thus seed starting, is by offering us data on frost dates, the length of growing seasons, and microclimates in our area.  Anyone can cultivate a lemon tree and plant it outside as it grows larger, but New Englanders know that our air and soil temperatures are not going to be hot enough to bear fruit, and our winters would kill it.  Looking at averages over time, our frost-free growing season is approximately May 8th to September 29th.   Now that we have that crucial piece of knowledge for our seed selection, let’s take a look at how to prepare for starting our seeds.  It’s also worth noting that purchasing your seeds at a local Garden Center, such as New England Nurseries, will take some of the guesswork out of determining which plants will grow in your area because that’s what we sell!   (Keep reading to the end of the article for a list of popular herbs and vegetables, and their respective starting timeframes.)   Preparing for Seed Starting:   Gather your supplies before starting your seeds. You will need seed trays, potting mix, seeds, labels, and a watering can or spray bottle. Ensure your seed starting area receives ample sunlight or invest in grow lights to provide adequate illumination for seedlings.   Prepare your seed starting mix by combining equal parts peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite to create a lightweight, well-draining medium.  Or, even better, Garden Centers such as New England Nurseries, sell ready-to-use Seed Starting Mix.  Moisten the mix before filling your seed trays to ensure uniform moisture distribution.   Sowing Seeds:   Follow the planting depth and spacing guidelines provided on the seed packet for each variety. As a general rule, sow seeds at a depth approximately twice the diameter of the seed. Use a pencil or dibber to create furrows in the seed starting mix, then gently press the seeds into the soil and cover them with a thin layer of vermiculite or fine potting mix.   Label each tray with the seed variety and planting date to track the progress of your seedlings. Place the trays in a warm, sunny location or under grow lights to encourage germination. Maintain consistent moisture levels by watering from the bottom or misting the soil surface regularly.   Managing Temperature and Humidity:   Temperature and humidity levels play a crucial role in seed germination and seedling growth. Aim to maintain daytime temperatures between 65°F to 75°F and nighttime temperatures between 55°F to 65°F, for optimal seedling development.   During the germination period, cover seed trays with plastic domes or clear plastic wrap to create a greenhouse-like environment that retains moisture and warmth. Monitor humidity levels and adjust ventilation as needed to prevent fungal diseases and damping-off.   Transplanting Seedlings:   Once seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves and outgrown their seed trays, they are ready for transplanting into larger containers or outdoor garden beds. Harden off seedlings gradually by exposing them to outdoor conditions for increasing periods each day, starting with sheltered locations and gradually transitioning to full sun and wind exposure.   Choose a cloudy or overcast day for transplanting to minimize stress on seedlings. Dig planting holes slightly larger than the root balls of the seedlings and gently tease apart any tangled roots before setting them in the soil at the same depth as they were in the seed trays. Water transplanted seedlings thoroughly to settle the soil and promote root establishment.  The fertilizer company, Bio-tone, makes a soil amendment that is formulated for seedlings that contains mycorrhizae, which is a beneficial fungus that draws nutrients from the soil to the plant.  You would add this during transplanting and not before.    Zone 6 Planting Seed Starting Schedule:   Late-February: Bell Peppers, Celery, Jalapeno Peppers, Leeks, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, and Thyme;   Early to Mid-March: Arugula, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chives, Eggplants, Kale, Sage, and Tomatoes;   Mid-March to Early-April: Basil, Bok Choy, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Collards, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Spinach, Swiss Chard, and Tomatillos;   Early to Mid-April: Cantaloupes, Cucumbers, Okra, Pumpkins, Watermelons, Winter Squash, Zucchini, and Summer Squash;   Things to start outside/directly in the garden (Timing varies, so check seed packets for exact timing): Asparagus, Beets, Carrots, Cilantro, Corn, Dill, Dry Beans, Fava Beans, Green Beans, Onions, Parsnips, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Salsify, Sweet Potatoes.

  • Blooms & Beyond: April 2024

    Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  April Spring has officially arrived and we are here to help guide you through your garden and plant tasks.  Let’s dive into what you should be doing now: Inspect and Clean Up: ·   Inspect your garden for any signs of winter damage, such as broken branches or heaved plants. ·   Clear away any debris, fallen branches, or dead foliage that accumulated over winter. ·   Remove any weeds that have started to emerge.   Soil Preparation: ·   Test the soil pH and nutrient levels. Amend the soil as necessary to ensure it's suitable for planting. ·   Work compost or organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility. ·   Consider mulching to suppress weeds, conserve moisture, and regulate soil temperature.   Pruning: ·   Prune dead or damaged branches from trees, shrubs, and perennial plants. ·   Shape shrubs and hedges as needed. ·   Prune spring-flowering shrubs immediately after they finish blooming.   Planting: ·   Start planting cool-season vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, carrots, and peas. ·   Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and roses before they break dormancy.   Dividing and Transplanting: ·   Divide overcrowded perennials such as hostas, daylilies, and ornamental grasses. ·   Transplant any perennials or shrubs that need to be moved to a different location.   Fertilizing: ·   Apply slow-release or organic fertilizer to perennials, trees, and shrubs as they begin active growth. ·   Avoid over-fertilizing, especially with nitrogen, as it can promote excessive leafy growth at the expense of flowers or fruit.   Pest and Disease Control: ·   Monitor plants for signs of pests and diseases, such as aphids, powdery mildew, or fungal infections. ·   Use organic pest control methods whenever possible, such as hand-picking pests or using insecticidal soap. ·   Consider installing physical barriers or row covers to protect young plants from pests.   Watering: ·   Water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials regularly to help establish their root systems. ·   Monitor soil moisture levels and water plants as needed, especially during dry periods.   With those tasks covered, we’ll see you next month! Our Monthly Top 10 This month’s top 10 feature is going to take a look at 10 easy-to-grow vegetables for beginners.  So, whether you are looking to start a new garden, garden with kids, or looking to scale back your previous operation, we’ve got you covered with some non-labor-intensive veggies:   1. Tomatoes:  Tomatoes are relatively easy to grow and are highly rewarding. They can be grown in patio containers or directly in the ground, requiring ample sunlight and regular watering.  Periodically fertilize for a greater yield.   2. Lettuce:  Lettuce is fast-growing and doesn't require much space. It can be grown in containers or garden beds and prefers cooler temperatures, making it perfect for spring and fall planting.   Leafy greens don’t like constant hot, direct sun, so make sure to plant these in a place where they’ll get some afternoon shade.   3. Radishes:  Radishes are one of the quickest vegetables to grow, often ready to harvest in just a few weeks. They can be grown in containers or directly in the ground.  Radishes are a salad favorite for many.   4. Green Beans:  Green beans are prolific growers and are well-suited for beginners. They thrive in warm weather and can be grown in containers or garden beds, requiring regular watering and support for climbing varieties.   5. Zucchini:  Zucchini plants are vigorous growers and produce an abundance of squash. They prefer warm temperatures and plenty of sunlight.  No pruning or fuss required!   6. Bell Peppers:  Bell peppers are relatively low-maintenance and produce colorful, flavorful fruits. They require full sun and regular watering.  Looking for a variety of colors in your diet?  Look no further.  Bell peppers come in a virtual rainbow of colors.  The longer you allow the peppers to stay on the vine, the riper and sweeter they get.   7. Cucumbers:  Cucumbers are fast-growing and produce an abundance of crisp, refreshing fruits. They prefer warm temperatures and plenty of sunlight.   Cucumbers are a versatile crop.  You can eat them fresh, pickle them, or juice them for a refreshing and healthy summer beverage.   8. Carrots:  Carrots are root vegetables that are easy to grow in loose, well-drained soil. They prefer cooler temperatures and can be grown in containers or directly in the ground.  Hold on to the seed packet so you can track growth instructions.  It can be very tempting to pull carrots early, but they’ll want a full 70 – 80 days of growing before they are ready.    9. Spinach:  Spinach is a cool-season vegetable that is easy to grow and highly nutritious. It can be grown in containers or garden beds and prefers partial shade, similar to lettuce.   10. Bush Peas:  Bush peas are compact plants that don't require support and are easy to grow for beginners. They prefer cooler temperatures and can be grown in containers or directly in the ground, producing sweet and tender peas for harvest.   These veggies are perfect for beginners because they are relatively forgiving of common gardening mistakes, such as overwatering or under-fertilizing, and they provide satisfying results with minimal effort.   Another great fact is that most of these plants can be purchased as “starts” or pre-established plants.  All you have to do is pop them in your garden and you are good to go.  Root vegetables such as radishes and carrots will need to be planted from seed.   Gardening Trends This month in Gardening Trends, we are looking at the mental health benefits of gardening.  Much like the Forest Bathing movement, people are starting to look toward gardening activities for their mental well-being.  It makes sense that gardening provides a good deal of physical movement, and exercise, as well as the added benefits of growing healthy fruit, berries, herbs, and vegetables, but studies are going a step further and looking at the holistic benefits as well.   Engaging in gardening activities fosters a sense of purpose and accomplishment as individuals nurture plants from seedlings to maturity.   This connection to nature can enhance self-esteem and reduce feelings of isolation.  The act of tending to a garden encourages mindfulness and promotes relaxation, allowing individuals to immerse themselves fully in the present moment and alleviate stress.  Also, the rhythmic tasks involved in gardening, such as planting, weeding, and watering, can have a calming effect on the mind, reducing symptoms of anxiety and depression.   Spending time outdoors exposes individuals to natural light and fresh air, which can improve mood and energy levels. Additionally, the sights, sounds, and scents of the garden stimulate the senses and evoke feelings of serenity and contentment.  Cultivating a garden also provides a sense of control and autonomy, empowering individuals to make decisions and take action to create a nurturing environment.  Ultimately, gardening promotes holistic well-being by nurturing both the body and mind, fostering a sense of tranquility, and promoting mental clarity and resilience.   Interested in learning more about this topic?   Several health-related journals write about the therapeutic nature of plants such as The Journal of Public Mental Health, The Journal of Therapeutic Horticulture, and The Journal of Environmental Psychology, to name a few.   So, whether it’s a few pots on your balcony or deck, or a sprawling suburban yard, roll up those sleeves, and get gardening!         Did You Know? - Fun Plant Facts Did you know that plants can communicate with each other?  They accomplish this through a network of chemical signals and interactions.  When a plant is under attack by pests or pathogens, it can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air as a form of defense mechanism.  These airborne chemicals can serve as signals to neighboring plants, alerting them to the impending threat.  In response to these signals, neighboring plants may activate defense mechanisms, such as producing toxins or increasing the production of defensive compounds.   Additionally, plants can communicate through their root systems via chemical signals and symbiotic relationships with soil microorganisms.  Mycorrhizal fungi, for example, can form mutually beneficial partnerships with plants, facilitating the exchange of nutrients and information underground. Through these intricate communication networks, plants can coordinate their responses to environmental stresses and threats, enhancing their chances of survival and resilience in their ecosystem.     Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month, we're digging (pun intended) the Barebones Hori Hori Ultimate multi-purpose gardening tool.  'Hori Hori' is a Japanese term (and tool) that roughly translates to 'dig dig.' What we love about it: at the base of its sturdy walnut handle is a stainless steel, flat pommel base that can double as a hammer to drive stakes or plant markers.  The 6 ¾” pointed blade is perfect for digging holes for bulbs, as well as measuring planting depth with inch marks on the blade. The double-edged blade has a serrated side for sawing branches or twigs, and it features a notch that does double duty as a twine cutter or bottle opener!  Grab your Hori Hori this spring and breeze through your gardening tasks.

  • Blooms & Beyond: June 2024

    Blooms & Beyond: Insight from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide: June It was a tough wait for us New England Gardeners, but we’ve arrived.  We are officially past the “last frost date.”  Let the planting and transplanting commence!  Hold on to your stylish gardening hats - here’s your to-do list for this month.    Mulching:  Apply a layer of mulch around your trees, but avoid the mulch volcano.  Mulch volcanoes occur when mulch is applied vertically up the trunk of the tree.  Some homeowners find this aesthetically pleasing, and in other circumstances, mulch is added year after year on top of existing mulch creating the volcano effect.  This will lead to the death of the tree by suffocation.  Tree roots breath and when they are suffocated by large piles of mulch, they send out secondary root systems that grow up and around the base of the tree in search of air.  The small roots get burnt in the summer and winter and can girdle the tree.  Below is a great image by sustainablesaratoga.com depicting the do and don’t of mulching.  If you want to learn more, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI12XNNqldA . Planting:   All veggies should be planted in the ground, or beds, now.  Sow additional carrots, beans, and lettuce for continual harvest.  If you are working with plants that you have grown from seed, be sure to thin them appropriately, as listed on seed package, for proper growth and a better harvest.  Plant your summer-blooming flower bulbs now.  It’s a great time to increase your curb appeal and beautify your backyard sanctuary with fresh new annuals, perennials, and native plants.   Fertilizing:  In Massachusetts, June is a good time to fertilize several types of plants and trees to support their growth and health. Here are some recommendations:   Trees and Shrubs · Deciduous Trees: Fertilize trees like maples, oaks, and elms. Use a balanced fertilizer or one higher in nitrogen to promote leafy growth.   ·  Evergreens: Conifers such as pines, spruces, and firs benefit from a fertilizer formulated specifically for evergreens, which often have a higher acid content.   · Flowering Shrubs: Shrubs like hydrangeas, roses, and azaleas benefit from a balanced fertilizer. For azaleas and rhododendrons, use an acid-loving plant fertilizer.   Lawn · Grass: Lawns typically receive a spring fertilization, but a lighter application in June can help maintain growth and green color. Use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer to avoid excessive growth.   Flowering Plants ·  Annuals: Fertilize annual flowers like petunias, marigolds, and impatiens every few weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer to support continuous blooming.   ·  Perennials: Established perennials, such as daylilies, hostas, and coneflowers, benefit from a balanced fertilizer applied in June to support summer growth.   Vegetable Garden ·  Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplants: Use a balanced fertilizer or one higher in phosphorus to support fruiting.   ·  Leafy Greens (lettuce, spinach, kale): Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to promote leaf growth.   ·  Root Crops (carrots, beets, radishes): A balanced fertilizer is suitable to support root development.   Fruit Trees and Berries ·  Apple and Pear Trees: Use a balanced or nitrogen-rich fertilizer to support growth.   ·  Stone Fruits (peaches, plums, cherries): These trees can also benefit from a balanced fertilizer.   · Berry Bushes (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries): Blueberries prefer acidic soil, so use a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Raspberries and strawberries can benefit from a balanced fertilizer.   Tips for Fertilizing ·  Soil Test: Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient deficiencies and pH levels. This will help you choose the right type of fertilizer. ·  Watering: Water thoroughly before and after applying fertilizer to help it penetrate the soil and reach the roots. ·   Avoid Over-fertilization: Follow the recommended application rates to avoid damaging plants and trees. ·   Ask a New England Nurseries staff member for recommendations.  We carry a vast array of fertilizer options.     Watering : In regards to container planters, you’ll want to make sure they have adequate drainage and check them more frequently during hot spells.  Container gardens and hanging plants could require watering a couple of times per day on really hot and dry days.  As for you garden beds, shrubs, and trees, it is better to water thoroughly a few times per week over small bursts of water daily.  To establish a deep and healthy root system, you want to water slowly and deeply and let the soil dry slightly between waterings.  Make sure you don’t overwater.   Pruning and dead-heading: Dead-heading is essentially removing dead or spent blooms from flowering plants.  This can encourage new growth in plants.  So, deadhead any perennials that have retained spent blooms from last year.  After Rhododendrons bloom, remove their dead flowering stalks.  Watch out for any new buds.  You don’t want to accidentally remove those.  And, check your basil plants daily for flower buds.  Remove buds immediately and you’ll have nice full basil plants with a continuous supply of tasty leaves.  If you’ve not yet pruned your dogwood, forsythia, or lilacs make sure you do that as soon as possible.  Next year's blooms develop on this year's growth, and you don’t want to later prune off next year’s buds.    Our Monthly Top 10 This month is Perennial Month, so we’ll be talking about sun and heat-loving perennials.  As a bonus, the plants listed below are easy-care, attractive, loved by pollinators, and most are drought-tolerant. 1.  Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) : This hardy perennial is known for its large, daisy-like flowers with prominent cone-shaped centers. It blooms from midsummer to fall and attracts butterflies and bees. Coneflowers are drought-tolerant and easy to grow in full sun.   2.  Daylily (Hemerocallis): Daylilies are renowned for their vibrant and varied flower colors. Each bloom lasts only one day, but a well-established clump can produce flowers over several weeks. They are very resilient and can withstand hot, sunny conditions.   3.  Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia): This perennial has silvery, aromatic foliage and tall spikes of small, lavender-blue flowers. Blooming from mid-summer to autumn, it adds a touch of airy elegance to gardens and thrives in hot, dry conditions.   4.  Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) : Black-eyed Susans feature bright yellow petals with dark brown centers. They bloom profusely from mid-summer to fall and are beloved for their cheerful appearance and ease of care. They are excellent for attracting pollinators.   5.  Sedum (Sedum, various): These succulent perennials come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Sedum is heat and drought-tolerant, making it ideal for sunny, dry spots.   6.  Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Known for its fragrant purple flower spikes and aromatic foliage, lavender is a staple in sunny gardens. It blooms in late spring to early summer and is used in aromatherapy and culinary applications. Lavender prefers well-drained soil and full sun.   7.  Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): Yarrow features flat-topped clusters of small, long-lasting flowers in shades of white, yellow, pink, and red. Its fern-like foliage is aromatic. Yarrow is highly drought-tolerant and thrives in poor soils under full sun.   8.  Bee Balm (Monarda didyma): Bee Balm is known for its vibrant red, pink, purple, or white tubular flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It has aromatic foliage and blooms from mid to late summer.   9.  Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum): Shasta Daisies have classic white petals with yellow centers and bloom from early summer to fall. They are easy to grow, drought-tolerant, and make great cut flowers.   10.  Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii): Catmint has aromatic, gray-green foliage and produces spikes of lavender-blue flowers from late spring to early fall. It is very hardy, drought-tolerant, and attracts pollinators.   Gardening Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at Edible Landscaping.  Edible landscaping has emerged as a popular trend in gardening, seamlessly blending aesthetics with functionality.  One person’s annuals or perennials are another person’s garnish, snack, or dinner, with this innovative approach to garden design.  The idea is to incorporate fruit trees, vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers into traditional landscaping, creating a beautiful and productive environment.  Moreover, this trend reflects a broader shift towards sustainability and self-sufficiency, as people seek to minimize their carbon footprint and connect more deeply with their food sources.  With its unique combination of visual appeal and practicality, edible landscaping is redefining the boundaries of modern gardening, making it both a stylish and sensible choice for garden enthusiasts.  Curious about trying your hand at Edible Landscaping?  Check out the list below for a few ideas on where you might start.  Fruit Trees and Shrubs ·  Apple Trees: Varieties like ‘Honeycrisp’ and ‘McIntosh’ are well-suited to Massachusetts’ climate. ·  Pear Trees: Varieties like ‘Bartlett’ and ‘Bosc’ are hardy and productive. ·  Blueberries: Northern highbush varieties such as ‘Bluecrop’ and ‘Jersey’ are excellent choices. ·  Raspberries: Varieties like ‘Heritage’ and ‘Boyne’ perform well in this region.   Vegetables ·  Tomatoes: Heirloom varieties like ‘Brandywine’ and ‘Cherokee Purple’ can be highly productive. ·  Leafy Greens: Kale, spinach, and Swiss chard are robust and grow well in Massachusetts. ·  Squash: Both summer varieties like ‘Zucchini’ and winter varieties like ‘Butternut’ thrive here.   Herbs ·  Basil: Great for summer growth, particularly varieties like ‘Genovese’. ·  Thyme: Hardy and perennial, making it a low-maintenance choice. ·  Mint: Varieties like spearmint and peppermint are vigorous and aromatic.   Edible Flowers ·  Nasturtiums: These are easy to grow and add a peppery flavor to salads. ·  Calendula: Not only are they beautiful, but their petals can be used in teas and salads. ·  Daylilies: Both the buds and flowers are edible and can be used in various dishes.   Nut Trees ·  Hazelnuts: Hardy and productive, they make an excellent addition to edible landscapes. ·  Chestnuts: These trees can thrive in Massachusetts and provide a bountiful harvest. Did You Know? – Fun Plant Facts Camellia sinensis, often referred to as the ‘Mother of Tea’ plants, is the versatile shrub responsible for producing a vast array of popular, and mainstream teas.  Native to East Asia, particularly the regions of China and India, this evergreen plant boasts leaves that can be processed into various types of tea, depending on the methods of cultivation, harvesting, and processing.  From this single species, we derive the world’s major tea varieties: white, green, oolong, black, and Pu-erh tea, each with distinct characteristics and flavor profiles.   The diversity in tea types from Camellia sinensis is largely attributed to the differences in oxidation and processing. White tea, the least processed of all, involves simply withering and drying the young leaves and buds, preserving their delicate flavor and high antioxidant content.  Green tea is slightly more processed, with leaves being quickly steamed or pan-fired to prevent oxidation, resulting in a fresh, grassy taste.  Oolong tea strikes a balance between green and black teas, with partial oxidation giving it a complex, aromatic profile that can range from floral to fruity. Black tea undergoes full oxidation, turning the leaves dark and enhancing their robust, bold flavors.  Finally, Pu-erh tea, unique for its fermentation process, yields a rich, earthy taste that matures over time.  Hot, iced, sugar, milk?  How do you take your tea?  I like them all, and this post is making me thirsty! Greenery or Gear:  Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month’s spotlight isn’t necessarily a plant, but a product for plants: the ever-popular Espoma ‘Tone’ line of organic fertilizers. Each type of Tone Fertilizer is formulated with a particular family of plants, or needs, in mind and addresses those specific requirements.  They all, however, contain beneficial Bio-tone Microbes and long-lasting organics that break down slowly. This organic line is 100% natural and organically approved, safe for people, pets, and plants. They are naturally low in salts, so they won’t burn plants. As an added benefit, they are created in a solar-powered facility, so while you’re nourishing your plants, you’re also doing your part for the planet!   We proudly carry the following Tone products: Bio-tone Starter Plus, Rose-Tone, Citrus-Tone, Berry-Tone, Iron-Tone, Tree-Tone, Holly-Tone, Bulb-Tone, Garden-Tone, Flower-Tone, Tomato-Tone, and Plant-Tone, in 4, 5, 8, 18, and 36-pound bags.

bottom of page