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If you still have summer flowers in your container gardens it's time to transition to fall blooms. Start by removing and composting past season annuals. If you happen to have any perennials in those containers now is a great time to plant them in the ground, or pass them on to someone who will. Fall Flowering Plants There are a wide array of fall flowering and autumnal foliage plants. Flowering annuals to consider are petunias, rudbeckia, marigolds, celosia, bidens, lantana, fall pansies, strawflowers, asters, and of course, mums, which come in a wide array of colors to suit your container design preferences. Don't Forget Foliage The best container designs have foliage mixed in. Some fantastic options for fall foliage in our nursery right now are kales and cabbages, which come in different shades of greens and purples. Euphorbia, sedum, coleus, ornamental peppers, grasses and heuchera are other great options offering different shades from lime green to dark purple. Mixing foliage plants with flowering plants will add nice texture to the container as well. Thrillers, Fillers, and Spillers Use this rule of thumb when designing your container garden. Thrillers are tall striking plants that catch the eye and create height in the design. Think grasses or millet. Fillers are mounding plants that take up space in the planter. These can be flowering but don't have to be. Fillers could be mums, heuchera, and bidens. Some fillers such as petunias and calibrachoa spill a little as well which can create a beautiful effect. And lastly, your spillers are plants that cascade off the sides of the planter and create interest down the side of the plant. Some options here are sweet potato vine and Dichondra ‘Silver Falls’. Thinking Outside the Box There are plenty of nice additions outside the realm of plants. Consider using pumpkins, gourds, straw, or other seasonal décor items. A tip for using pumpkins and gourds in the planter is to place them in a plastic pot or saucer, this will prevent the bottoms from rotting. Add Contrast! What makes the most spectacular planters interesting is contrast! Consider using burgundy-colored grasses like Pennisetum 'Rubrum' with lime green foliage like heuchera or sedum. However, be cautious about adding too many different colors and textures as this can make the planter look messy and chaotic. A general rule of thumb it to have too main colors that complement each other, and an unexpected color that adds contrast to the design. Design with the pot in mind too. The pot can compliment the rest but shouldn’t be stealing the show. Thanks for reading to the end! If you stick to these main principles, you'll have standout planters that will be sure to impress! No planter? No problem! We have a wide array of planters to choose from. And remember, our team at New England Nurseries is always here to help. Just come on down and we can help bring your vision into life!

Blooms & Beyond:  Insights from New England Nurseries October 2024    Sweater-weather is quickly approaching.  But, before you pack up your gardening gear and head inside, keep in mind that autumn is a great time to plan (and plant) for the spring.  You’ll want to get your spring blooming bulbs in the ground, as well as replace any trees or shrubs that didn’t fair well over the Summer.  Lastly, you’ll want to check out the areas in the lawn where you need to repair or replace damaged or dead grass.  Keep reading for more fall to-dos!   New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  October October in Massachusetts is an excellent time to prepare your garden for the upcoming winter and ensure a healthy start for the next growing season. Here are some gardening tasks to focus on: Plant Spring-Blooming Bulbs Bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths should be planted now to ensure a vibrant spring display. Plant them in well-drained soil, about 2-3 times the depth of the bulb's height. Divide and Transplant Perennials Divide overgrown perennials like hostas, daylilies, irises, and peonies. October’s cooler weather is ideal for dividing and moving plants, allowing them to establish roots before winter. Mulch Garden Beds Add a layer of mulch (2-3 inches) around your garden beds to protect plants from temperature fluctuations and conserve moisture. Mulching also helps prevent soil erosion during winter rains and snow. Clean Up Annuals and Weeds Pull out spent annuals and vegetable plants, as they can harbor diseases and pests. Remove invasive weeds to prevent them from overwintering and spreading in the spring. Plant Garlic October is the best time to plant garlic in Massachusetts. Plant cloves pointy-side up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Garlic will develop roots over the winter and be ready to harvest by mid-summer. Protect Tender Perennials Bring in any tender plants like herbs, tropicals, and container plants before the first frost. Plant Trees and Shrubs October is a great time to plant trees and shrubs, giving them time to establish roots before winter. Make sure to water them well until the ground freezes. Cut Back Dead and Diseased Foliage Prune back any dead or diseased foliage on perennials to prevent the spread of disease next year. However, leave ornamental grasses and seed heads like coneflowers for winter interest and wildlife.   Prepare the Lawn Overseed or fertilize the lawn if needed. Use a slow-release fertilizer designed for fall, which helps the grass recover from summer stress and strengthens roots for winter. Keep mowing until the grass stops growing, typically when temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. Wrap Young Trees Protect the bark of young or newly planted trees from winter damage by wrapping them with tree guards or burlap. Water Well Before Frost Give your plants a deep watering before the first frost, especially perennials and newly planted trees/shrubs. This helps them enter winter with a healthy moisture level.      Our Monthly Top 10: October is the favorite month for many.  Is it the cooler weather?  The pumpkin spice?  Or perhaps Halloween?  It’s probably different for everyone, but we definitely have several great reasons to love fall at New England Nurseries.  And, those reasons will be this month’s top 10!      1.      This cute little jack-o-lantern guy. Perfect for the garden or porch;   2.      Selecting the perfect pumpkin to bring your carving vision to life.;   3.      The beautiful colors and jewel-like appearance of ornamental corn;   4.      This huge skeleton.  He is ready for Halloween.   5.      Mums.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and colors;   6.      Giant fuzzy spiders;   7.      A new wreath for the front door;   8.      Porch displays with corn stalks and hay bales;   9.      Small, funky gourds; and   10.  New door mats with adorable fall vibes.         Current Gardening Trends   This month we’re focusing on outdoor kitchens.  Because, we all know that food tastes better outdoors!   Outdoor kitchens are a popular home addition that extends the living space into the garden, providing a seamless blend of indoor and outdoor environments.  With features like built-in grills, countertops, sinks, and even pizza ovens, outdoor kitchens are designed to make cooking and entertaining outside more convenient and enjoyable.  One of the primary benefits is the social aspect - they create a natural gathering point for family and friends, enhancing the overall entertainment experience.  Cooking outdoors can also reduce indoor heat and energy costs during warmer months.  Additionally, outdoor kitchens add aesthetic appeal and increase property value by turning a backyard into a functional and versatile space, making them an investment that combines practicality with luxury.     Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts   Since it’s October and we’re surrounded by pumpkins at New England Nurseries, let’s take a deeper look at what makes them fun and unique.  First off, pumpkins are technically a fruit.  They receive this botanical classification because they contain seeds and develop from the flowering part of the plant. Interestingly, pumpkins were once used to remove freckles.  While we’re not sure if they can completely eliminate freckles, pumpkins do contain an enzyme that makes them perfect for exfoliating face masks. The largest pumpkin ever recorded was grown in Italy in 2021 and weighed a staggering 2,702 pounds. There are over 45 different varieties of pumpkins, ranging from the small and sweet ‘Sugar Pie’ to the enormous ‘Atlantic Giant.’  They also come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and colors - including blue, white, and even green.  Despite their dense appearance, pumpkins are made up of 90% water, which makes them low in calories and hydrating.  And lastly, pumpkin flowers are edible.  They’re often used in salads, stir-fried, deep-fried, or added to soups.  The flowers are said to have a mild, sweet flavor.      Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight   As you bring your plants inside, you’ll want to give them a good check over.  It’s probably a good time to give all over your indoor plants a look over.  What you are looking for are any signs of insect infestation.  Signs of an indoor plant insect infestation can include yellowing or wilting leaves, tiny holes or spots on the foliage, and sticky residue on leaves or surrounding surfaces. You might also notice webbing, a cotton-like substance, or visible insects like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies on the undersides of leaves or near the soil. Additionally, stunted growth or distorted leaves can indicate the presence of pests feeding on the plant’s nutrients.   Should you find any issues, you’ll want to use a Horticultural Spray Oil, Neem Oil, or Insecticidal Soap to rid your plant of pests.  Products like Neem Oil are also effective against powdery mildew and rust.

Did you know that some plants require a period of cold in order to thrive? Thus, they are best planted in the fall. The process is called cold stratification. Read on to learn more and check out which plants you should be planting this fall. Cold stratification is a process that mimics the natural winter conditions many plant seeds need to break dormancy and germinate successfully in the spring. In Massachusetts, the cold winters naturally provide the necessary conditions for these seeds. Here is a list of plant seeds that typically require cold stratification: Perennial Flowers and Wildflowers Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) Essential for monarch butterflies; seeds need cold stratification for 30-60 days. Lupines (Lupinus spp.) Requires stratification for 30-60 days for better germination rates. Echinacea (Coneflowers, Echinacea spp.) Seeds should be cold stratified for 30-90 days. Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) Cold stratification for 30-60 days improves germination. Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) Needs 3-4 weeks of cold stratification for optimal germination. Penstemon (Penstemon spp.) Typically needs 30-60 days of stratification. Poppies (Papaver spp.) Some varieties benefit from cold stratification for 30 days. Primrose (Primula spp.) Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Baptisia (False Indigo) Needs cold stratification for 4-6 weeks. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) Cold stratify for about 30 days for best results. Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium spp.) Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) Requires cold stratification for about 60 days. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) Needs cold stratification for 30-60 days. Native Grasses Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) Cold stratify for 30-60 days. Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) Benefits from cold stratification for 30 days. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) Requires cold stratification for about 30 days. Trees and Shrubs Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) Requires 60-90 days of stratification. Maple (Acer spp.) Many species require 40-90 days of cold stratification. Dogwood (Cornus spp.) Seeds need 90-120 days of cold stratification. Hazelnut (Corylus spp.) Requires 90-120 days of cold stratification. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) Needs a longer cold stratification period of 90-120 days. Oak (Quercus spp.) Acorns often require 30-60 days of cold stratification. Herbs Lavender (Lavandula spp.) Some varieties require 30-40 days of cold stratification. Echinacea (Coneflower) Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Angelica (Angelica archangelica) Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Asparagus Plant crowns or seeds in the fall for establishment over winter. Rhubarb Plant crowns in the fall; they will establish roots over winter. Vegetables (These plants don’t require cold stratification in order to germinate properly, but they could overwinter nicely for an early harvest!) Garlic Plant cloves in the fall for a summer harvest. Onions (Sets or Seeds) Fall planting can lead to larger bulbs in the spring. Shallots Similar to garlic, plant in the fall for a summer harvest. Carrots Some varieties can be planted in the fall and overwintered for an early spring harvest. Spinach Cold-hardy and will often overwinter for early spring growth. Kale Can be planted in late fall; it will grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool. Radishes Some varieties can be sown in the fall and harvested before the ground freezes or in early spring. Turnips Sow seeds in late summer to early fall for a fall harvest or overwintering. Cover Crops Winter Rye Excellent for soil improvement and erosion control; plant in late fall. Crimson Clover Adds nitrogen to the soil and protects it over winter. Field Peas A legume that fixes nitrogen and provides organic matter. Hairy Vetch Fixes nitrogen and adds biomass to the soil. Thanks for reading! Check out more interesting plant facts and advice on our website at: www.newenglandnurseries.com .

Summer isn’t over yet.  While Labor Day marks the end of the season for some, it technically doesn’t end until Sunday, September 22nd.  There is still much to do including some vegetable planting!  Read on to find out what you should put on your lawn and garden to-do list this month.   New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  September Lawn Care:  One of the many benefits of working in a Garden Center is learning insider tips and tricks that you might not have otherwise come across when searching for answers online.  One such tip I learned recently is that the fall is a great time to treat your lawn for weeds.  I had been taught that you do this task in the spring, which you absolutely can continue to do if that is your practice.  However, if you allow late summer weeds to overwinter, they may come back bigger and stronger in the spring.  Best to take care of them now.  But, know that you will want any weed control to be active for a month before you seed/overseed your lawn.  Otherwise, the weed killer can inhibit the germination and growth of young grass.    Your other fall lawn tasks include aeration, overseeding, and fertilizing.  Aeration reduces soil compaction, allows roots to breathe and grow stronger, and fertilizers will have a greater impact.  When overseeding your lawn, you’ll want to choose a quality seed that can stand up to New England’s weather conditions.  We recommend Jonathan Green Black Beauty seed as it roots deeply (up to 4 feet), is disease-resistant, drought tolerant, and contains Endophytes for natural insect resistance.  We typically use a starter fertilizer at the time of seeding.  We carry Greenview and Scott’s Starter Fertilizers. After your new grass has had time to germinate (around 4 – 6 weeks) it is time to add a more nutrient-rich fertilizer.  We recommend Espoma or Greenview lawn care products.  Lastly, when leaves begin dropping, be sure to remove them so they don’t smother your grass.   Pruning:  Pruning in the fall should be done with care, as improper timing can lead to damage or reduced blooms for the following year.  However, some shrubs and trees can be pruned in the fall.  The following list includes some common shrubs and trees that can benefit from some fall pruning.  Avoid heavy pruning for most trees and shrubs, as it can stimulate new growth that may not harden off before winter, leading to damage.  The focus is on the removal of dead, diseased, or damaged branches, as well as crossing branches that may cause problems later.    ·        Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens and Hydrangea paniculata):   Prune these types of hydrangeas in the fall after they have finished blooming.  Avoid pruning Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea) in the fall, as it blooms on old wood.  Not sure which variety of hydrangea you have?  Email us an image of one of its blooms to info@newenglandnurseries.com and we’ll help you out.    ·        Roses (Rosa species):  Prune hybrid tea roses and other repeat-blooming roses lightly in the fall, mainly to remove any dead or diseased wood.  Save heavy pruning for early spring.   ·        Spirea (Spiraea japonica):  Prune to remove dead or weak growth and shape the shrub.   ·        Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa):  Light pruning in the fall can help maintain the shape and remove dead or diseased branches.   ·        Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia):  Prune lightly after flowering to remove spent blooms and thin out older growth.   ·        Maple (Acer species):  Light pruning can be done in the fall to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches, but heavy pruning should be done in late winter or early spring.   ·        Oak (Quercus species):  If necessary, prune in late fall to reduce the risk of oak wilt disease, which can be transmitted by insects attracted to fresh wounds.   ·        Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos):  Prune to remove any suckers or watersprouts.   ·        Birch (Betula species):  Like maples, light pruning can be done in the fall to remove dead or damaged branches.   ·        Sumac (Rhus species):  Prune to maintain shape and remove any unwanted suckers.   If you have any questions about when to prune a specific tree or shrub that you purchased here, please feel free to contact us!    Garden Maintenance:  You will want to harvest any remaining summer veggies like tomatoes, peppers, and squash.  And, you can still plant cool-season crops like kale, spinach, and lettuce.  These plants are both fast-growing and cold-tolerant.  Divide and transplant spring and summer-blooming perennials. Protect your shrubs and perennials from the cold of winter by adding a layer of mulch.  Mulching will also help to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.  Remove spent annuals and weeds from flower beds to prepare them for winter.  Start planting spring-blooming bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and crocuses.  And, trim back perennials after they have finished blooming.   Early fall is a good time to plant trees and shrubs.  The cooler temps don’t stress the plants quite as much as transplanting in the heat of summer.  And it gives them time to establish roots before winter.    Other important garden-related tasks for this month include cleaning and storing garden tools.  A wise man once told me (many, many times – love you Gramps!) that if you take care of your tools, your tools will take care of you.  So, make sure you clean, sharpen, prepare, and store your summer tools.  Turn over your compost pile, and add leaves and garden debris.  If you don’t have a compost pile, it’s never too late to start one!  Keep an eye on the weather for the first frost dates of the season, and be ready to cover your tender plants.    Our Monthly Top 10 September is National Honey Month!  So, let’s focus on bee and pollinator-loving plants that bloom thoughout this month.  New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae):  Vibrant purple flowers, a favorite of bees and butterflies. 2.      Goldenrod ( Solidago spp. ): Bright yellow flowers, highly attractive to bees and butterflies. 3.      Joe-Pye Weed ( Eutrochium purpureum ): Tall plant with clusters of pinkish-purple flowers, a magnet for butterflies. 4.      Sedum ( Sedum spp. ): Succulent with clusters of small, star-shaped flowers in pink, red, or white, popular with bees. 5.      Black-eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia hirta ): Bright yellow petals with a dark center, attracting bees and butterflies. 6.      Cardinal Flower ( Lobelia cardinalis ): Striking red flowers, particularly attractive to hummingbirds. 7.      Coneflower ( Echinacea purpurea ): Pinkish-purple flowers with a prominent cone, a favorite of bees and butterflies. 8.      Mountain Mint ( Pycnanthemum spp. ): Small, pale flowers with a strong minty fragrance, highly attractive to a wide range of pollinators. 9.      Ironweed ( Vernonia noveboracensis ): Tall plant with deep purple flowers, popular with bees and butterflies. 10.   Boneset ( Eupatorium perfoliatum ): White, fluffy flowers that bloom late in the season, attracting various pollinators.       Current Gardening Trends With fall just around the corner, it’s a great time to start looking at fall containers.  Fall containers are a great way to add interest and color to your porch or deck.  Our staff is available to assist you in plant and pot selection for your own custom porch pot.  To get started on this fun and unique DIY adventure, take a look at some guidelines below.   Consider the Weather:  As you're planting late in the growing season, you can focus on short-term goals without worrying too much about long-term planning.  Pay attention to which plants perform well as temperatures drop, and remove any struggling annuals.   Choose your Plants: Many fall plants can handle freezing temperatures, making cold-tolerant annuals or perennials great choices.   Consider using this formula: A Thriller:  A tall plant with eye-catching blooms or unique textures to stand out among other plants.  This plant should be placed in the back, or middle, of the planter.  Avoid the edges so you don’t block smaller plants.   A Filler: A medium-sized plant that complements or contrasts with the thriller, filling in around its base.   A Spiller: A trailing plant that cascades over the sides of the container, softening its edges. This could be a flowering plant or attractive foliage. Other excellent options include cabbage, kale, heather, and lantanas.   Group Containers:  Arrange several containers with single plants to form a larger display. Grouping containers can also transform the look of a space, such as a deck, porch, or yard. Rearrange them as needed to showcase the best-looking plants as others fade.   Lastly, Incorporate Other Elements:  Enhance your arrangements by adding plant material from your garden.  For a cohesive look, consider limiting your color palette to shades like purple, burgundy, orange, and yellow.   Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts This month we’re going to look a little deeper into what makes Sunflowers unique.  The centers of sunflowers are made up of thousands of tiny flowers.  Naturally, this makes them great pollinators.  They are known for their Heliotropism, which means track the sun as it moves across the sky.  They do this until they are mature, and then they face east permanently.  There are 67 different species of sunflowers.  They vary in height, endurance, flower shape, and color – including brown, red, and purple.  Every part of a sunflower is edible, with the seeds being the most popular part of the plant.  A single sunflower can produce up to 2,000 seeds.  Sunflowers symbolize joy, happiness, and positivity; and can be used as gifts to express love, friendship, and general well wishes.  Last fun fact: Sunflowers have been used to soak up nuclear radiation.  Now that is one interesting plant! Greenery or Gear:  Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight It’s time to aerate your lawn!  Aerating your lawn has many benefits including reducing soil compaction, improving air exchange, promoting stronger roots for a thicker lawn, and enhancing water and fertilizer uptake.  We love these Terra Verde Spiked Shoes.  They strap onto your existing shoes and have 24, 2” spikes! Enjoy plant sales and events? Click the icons below to join our socials and always be in the know!

Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  April Spring has officially arrived and we are here to help guide you through your garden and plant tasks.  Let’s dive into what you should be doing now: Inspect and Clean Up: ·   Inspect your garden for any signs of winter damage, such as broken branches or heaved plants. ·   Clear away any debris, fallen branches, or dead foliage that accumulated over winter. ·   Remove any weeds that have started to emerge.   Soil Preparation: ·   Test the soil pH and nutrient levels. Amend the soil as necessary to ensure it's suitable for planting. ·   Work compost or organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility. ·   Consider mulching to suppress weeds, conserve moisture, and regulate soil temperature.   Pruning: ·   Prune dead or damaged branches from trees, shrubs, and perennial plants. ·   Shape shrubs and hedges as needed. ·   Prune spring-flowering shrubs immediately after they finish blooming.   Planting: ·   Start planting cool-season vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, carrots, and peas. ·   Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and roses before they break dormancy.   Dividing and Transplanting: ·   Divide overcrowded perennials such as hostas, daylilies, and ornamental grasses. ·   Transplant any perennials or shrubs that need to be moved to a different location.   Fertilizing: ·   Apply slow-release or organic fertilizer to perennials, trees, and shrubs as they begin active growth. ·   Avoid over-fertilizing, especially with nitrogen, as it can promote excessive leafy growth at the expense of flowers or fruit.   Pest and Disease Control: ·   Monitor plants for signs of pests and diseases, such as aphids, powdery mildew, or fungal infections. ·   Use organic pest control methods whenever possible, such as hand-picking pests or using insecticidal soap. ·   Consider installing physical barriers or row covers to protect young plants from pests.   Watering: ·   Water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials regularly to help establish their root systems. ·   Monitor soil moisture levels and water plants as needed, especially during dry periods.   With those tasks covered, we’ll see you next month! Our Monthly Top 10 This month’s top 10 feature is going to take a look at 10 easy-to-grow vegetables for beginners.  So, whether you are looking to start a new garden, garden with kids, or looking to scale back your previous operation, we’ve got you covered with some non-labor-intensive veggies:   1. Tomatoes:  Tomatoes are relatively easy to grow and are highly rewarding. They can be grown in patio containers or directly in the ground, requiring ample sunlight and regular watering.  Periodically fertilize for a greater yield.   2. Lettuce:  Lettuce is fast-growing and doesn't require much space. It can be grown in containers or garden beds and prefers cooler temperatures, making it perfect for spring and fall planting.   Leafy greens don’t like constant hot, direct sun, so make sure to plant these in a place where they’ll get some afternoon shade.   3. Radishes:  Radishes are one of the quickest vegetables to grow, often ready to harvest in just a few weeks. They can be grown in containers or directly in the ground.  Radishes are a salad favorite for many.   4. Green Beans:  Green beans are prolific growers and are well-suited for beginners. They thrive in warm weather and can be grown in containers or garden beds, requiring regular watering and support for climbing varieties.   5. Zucchini:  Zucchini plants are vigorous growers and produce an abundance of squash. They prefer warm temperatures and plenty of sunlight.  No pruning or fuss required!   6. Bell Peppers:  Bell peppers are relatively low-maintenance and produce colorful, flavorful fruits. They require full sun and regular watering.  Looking for a variety of colors in your diet?  Look no further.  Bell peppers come in a virtual rainbow of colors.  The longer you allow the peppers to stay on the vine, the riper and sweeter they get.   7. Cucumbers:  Cucumbers are fast-growing and produce an abundance of crisp, refreshing fruits. They prefer warm temperatures and plenty of sunlight.   Cucumbers are a versatile crop.  You can eat them fresh, pickle them, or juice them for a refreshing and healthy summer beverage.   8. Carrots:  Carrots are root vegetables that are easy to grow in loose, well-drained soil. They prefer cooler temperatures and can be grown in containers or directly in the ground.  Hold on to the seed packet so you can track growth instructions.  It can be very tempting to pull carrots early, but they’ll want a full 70 – 80 days of growing before they are ready.    9. Spinach:  Spinach is a cool-season vegetable that is easy to grow and highly nutritious. It can be grown in containers or garden beds and prefers partial shade, similar to lettuce.   10. Bush Peas:  Bush peas are compact plants that don't require support and are easy to grow for beginners. They prefer cooler temperatures and can be grown in containers or directly in the ground, producing sweet and tender peas for harvest.   These veggies are perfect for beginners because they are relatively forgiving of common gardening mistakes, such as overwatering or under-fertilizing, and they provide satisfying results with minimal effort.   Another great fact is that most of these plants can be purchased as “starts” or pre-established plants.  All you have to do is pop them in your garden and you are good to go.  Root vegetables such as radishes and carrots will need to be planted from seed.   Gardening Trends This month in Gardening Trends, we are looking at the mental health benefits of gardening.  Much like the Forest Bathing movement, people are starting to look toward gardening activities for their mental well-being.  It makes sense that gardening provides a good deal of physical movement, and exercise, as well as the added benefits of growing healthy fruit, berries, herbs, and vegetables, but studies are going a step further and looking at the holistic benefits as well.   Engaging in gardening activities fosters a sense of purpose and accomplishment as individuals nurture plants from seedlings to maturity.   This connection to nature can enhance self-esteem and reduce feelings of isolation.  The act of tending to a garden encourages mindfulness and promotes relaxation, allowing individuals to immerse themselves fully in the present moment and alleviate stress.  Also, the rhythmic tasks involved in gardening, such as planting, weeding, and watering, can have a calming effect on the mind, reducing symptoms of anxiety and depression.   Spending time outdoors exposes individuals to natural light and fresh air, which can improve mood and energy levels. Additionally, the sights, sounds, and scents of the garden stimulate the senses and evoke feelings of serenity and contentment.  Cultivating a garden also provides a sense of control and autonomy, empowering individuals to make decisions and take action to create a nurturing environment.  Ultimately, gardening promotes holistic well-being by nurturing both the body and mind, fostering a sense of tranquility, and promoting mental clarity and resilience.   Interested in learning more about this topic?   Several health-related journals write about the therapeutic nature of plants such as The Journal of Public Mental Health, The Journal of Therapeutic Horticulture, and The Journal of Environmental Psychology, to name a few.   So, whether it’s a few pots on your balcony or deck, or a sprawling suburban yard, roll up those sleeves, and get gardening!         Did You Know? - Fun Plant Facts Did you know that plants can communicate with each other?  They accomplish this through a network of chemical signals and interactions.  When a plant is under attack by pests or pathogens, it can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air as a form of defense mechanism.  These airborne chemicals can serve as signals to neighboring plants, alerting them to the impending threat.  In response to these signals, neighboring plants may activate defense mechanisms, such as producing toxins or increasing the production of defensive compounds.   Additionally, plants can communicate through their root systems via chemical signals and symbiotic relationships with soil microorganisms.  Mycorrhizal fungi, for example, can form mutually beneficial partnerships with plants, facilitating the exchange of nutrients and information underground. Through these intricate communication networks, plants can coordinate their responses to environmental stresses and threats, enhancing their chances of survival and resilience in their ecosystem.     Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month, we're digging (pun intended) the Barebones Hori Hori Ultimate multi-purpose gardening tool.  'Hori Hori' is a Japanese term (and tool) that roughly translates to 'dig dig.' What we love about it: at the base of its sturdy walnut handle is a stainless steel, flat pommel base that can double as a hammer to drive stakes or plant markers.  The 6 ¾” pointed blade is perfect for digging holes for bulbs, as well as measuring planting depth with inch marks on the blade. The double-edged blade has a serrated side for sawing branches or twigs, and it features a notch that does double duty as a twine cutter or bottle opener!  Grab your Hori Hori this spring and breeze through your gardening tasks. Barebones Hori Hori

I’ve written before that I love working at a Garden Center because I’ve been learning so much about the plants around me, and most importantly, how to care for my own plants better. One thing I was surprised by was plants I thought were perennials, like Dahlias, behave more like annuals here in Massachusetts. The pros here kept telling me, yes, they are perennials… somewhere. Just not here. With that said, and a little extra work on your part, there may be a way to save those tender perennials from year to year. Below is a list of plants that are not winter-hardy, or are native to warmer climates, that need to be dug up and stored indoors during the winter to survive. Tender Bulbs, Tubers, and Corms Dahlias (Dahlia spp.) Dig up tubers after the first frost; store in a cool, dry place. Cannas (Canna spp.) Lift rhizomes after frost; store in a cool, dry area. Gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.) Dig up corms before the first hard frost; store in a dry, frost-free place. Elephant Ears (Colocasia and Alocasia spp.) Lift tubers before frost; keep in a cool, dry spot indoors. Tuberous Begonias (Begonia tuberhybrida) Dig up tubers after foliage dies back; store in a cool, dry place. Caladium (Caladium spp.) Lift tubers before frost; store in a warm, dry area. Crocosmia (Crocosmia spp.) Dig up corms before frost; store in a cool, dry place. Calla Lilies (Zantedeschia spp.) Dig up rhizomes before frost; store in a cool, dry place. Peacock Orchid (Gladiolus murielae, also known as Acidanthera) Dig up corms before frost; store in a cool, dry place. Oxalis (Oxalis spp.) Lift bulbs or tubers before frost; store in a cool, dry location.   Tender Perennials Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) Can be potted up and kept indoors as houseplants or stored dormant in a cool, dry area. Fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.) Bring indoors as houseplants or store in a cool, frost-free area. Salvias (Tender species like Salvia guaranitica) Bring indoors or store in a cool, dry spot. Mexican Sage (Salvia leucantha) Not frost-hardy; dig up and store indoors. Sweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas) Can be overwintered by storing tubers in a cool, dry place. Lantana (Lantana camara) Bring indoors or treat as an annual; not cold-hardy. Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides) Bring indoors as a houseplant or take cuttings for propagation. Mandevilla (Mandevilla spp.) Bring indoors as a houseplant; not frost-hardy. Brugmansia (Angel’s Trumpet) Bring indoors; needs a frost-free environment. Hibiscus (Tropical varieties, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Bring indoors as houseplants.    Tender Vines and Climbers Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.) Bring indoors or place in a frost-free greenhouse. Passionflower (Passiflora spp.) Bring indoors; not hardy in Massachusetts winters. Black-eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata) Can be brought indoors or treated as an annual. Morning Glory (Ipomoea spp., tender varieties) Not frost-hardy; often treated as an annual.    Succulents and Tender Tropicals Banana Plants (Musa spp.) Dig up and store in a cool, frost-free place or bring indoors as a houseplant. Agapanthus (Agapanthus spp.) Tender varieties need to be brought indoors or stored in a cool, dry spot. Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta) Bring indoors; not frost-tolerant. Jasmine (Tender varieties, e.g., Jasminum sambac) Bring indoors or keep in a frost-free greenhouse. Cordyline (Cordyline spp.) Not frost-hardy; bring indoors as a houseplant.    Tips for Storing Tender Perennials: Digging Up: Carefully dig up the plants after the first light frost or before a hard frost. Shake off excess soil, trim off dead foliage, and allow the roots or tubers to dry before storing. Storage Conditions: Store in a cool (40-50°F), dark, dry, and well-ventilated space. Many plants do well in peat moss, sand, or vermiculite to prevent them from drying out completely. Periodic Checks: Check the stored plants periodically throughout the winter. Discard any that show signs of rot or disease.   Thanks for reading! If you would like to learn more plant facts or advice, check us out on the web at: www.newenglandnurseries.com .

New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide: July During the summertime, many plants have a more active growing period.  They will need a bit more help in the form of fertilizer whether this is a liquid fertilizer mixed into your plant's water or slow-release granules sprinkled around the plants or trees' drip line. Doing this once a month can help your plants thrive. But remember during periods of high heat avoid fertilizing, especially with granules.   If the weather hasn’t been very cooperative by providing rainwater, you’ll need to supplement hydration by watering your plants.  Read on for general watering guidelines. In general, plants need about one inch of water per week, but the amount can vary depending on the species and variety.  For example, smaller plants may need 1–2 gallons, larger shrubs may need 3–5 gallons, and 15-gallon plants may need 10 gallons each time.  In extremely hot weather, you may need to water daily or every other day.  Plants in patio pots or hanging baskets may need twice daily watering as they can dry out faster. It's better to water plants deeply a couple of times a week instead of a little bit each day.  This helps plants develop strong root systems that will reach further down into the ground to find additional water.   You can let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings. Water slowly and deeply, aiming to get water a few inches down into the soil.  You can use a moisture meter to test the soil moisture.  You can also try the finger dip test, pushing your finger into the soil until you reach your knuckle. If the soil feels dry, it's time to water. Other tips: Keep the foliage dry.  Don't overwater, as this can be just as damaging as underwatering.   Roots also need air, so don't keep the soil saturated with water all the time.                             Our Monthly Top 10 July brings hotter days, so we will look at some drought-tolerant plants that fare well despite the heat. Many of these plants do not need to be watered as often as others but don’t forget new plantings, no matter the type, need plenty of water while they establish their roots. 1.      Coneflower:  Coneflowers are perennials that bloom in mid-summer and continue to bloom until frost. Once established they can be watered at least once a week depending on the weather.   2.      Catmint:  Catmint is a full-sun perennial that tolerates shade.  They need minimal supplementary watering, except during long dry spells when you’ll want to give them more water. It is clear when catmint is over-watered as it displays yellow leaves and limp stems.   3.      Salvia:  Salvia is a full-sun flowering annual. When watering it is best to water deeply but not too often, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. This prevents root rot from occurring.   4.      Lavender:  Lavenders are a full-sun perennial herb that prefers well-draining soil.  These plants also grow well in pots.  Water lavender every two to three weeks but during periods of flowering water once a week or more.   5.      Geranium: Geraniums are full-sun annuals.  Once established they need to be watered about one to two times a week.  Water when the soil feels dry as geraniums do not like to be soggy and overwatering is a common mistake.   6.      Butterfly bush:  Butterfly bushes are woody perennials that need full- sun and well-draining soil. Like salvia, butterfly bushes should be watered deeply but make sure not to overwater them.   7.      Hosta:  Hostas are shade perennials that can tolerate morning sun.  They need to be soaked once a week and increase watering to twice a week during dry spells.   8.      Marigolds:  Marigolds are easy-to-grow annuals that thrive in full sun.  Keep their soil moist by giving them a thorough watering once a week.  They will need more water when the soil feels dry.    9.      Angelonia:  Angelonia is a full-sun, flowering annual.  Make sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy, and water them when the top of the soil feels dry.   10.  Vinca:  Vincas are annuals that prefer full sun and can last till fall.  But, once the cold sets in they die off.  Water when the top one to two inches of soil is dry.  Water earlier in the day so the soil can dry out slightly overnight.  They benefit from regular watering, especially during dry spells but can be watered less during rainy seasons.     Planting Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at meadow gardening or meadow lawns.  Meadow gardens are areas filled with native and pollinator-friendly plants.  Plants are arranged together to create a natural look.  Unlike traditional garden beds or landscaping, meadow gardens do not have mulched areas between plants.  Along with flowers and flowering plants, native grasses are a good addition and help make it look like a true meadow.  A similar look can also be achieved by prepping an area of dirt and spreading wildflower seeds, letting nature decide how your garden will look.  Some plants to include are: ·        Butterfly Weed ·        Bee Balm ·        Foxgloves ·        Coneflower ·        Big Bluestem ·        Switchgrass ·        Swamp Milkweed There are several benefits to having a meadow garden, not only do they have a unique look, but they also help the local environment, as they maintain a smaller environmental footprint.  Flower meadows attract and provide food for many pollinators and birds.  They also help with stormwater runoff as the deep roots of native plants assist in soil retention.  Planting native plants and grasses can also help with the overall soil health.   Did You Know? – Fun Plant Facts                             Did you know that butterfly wings are clear?  Yup, butterfly wings are clear.  The pigments we see are microscopic scales, that sit on the wings and reflect the light.  The scales create patterns that help camouflage the butterfly and attract mates.  The ‘dust’ you get on your fingers when you touch the wings of a butterfly or moth are in actuality tiny scales.  More cool facts about butterflies to follow. Butterflies taste with their feet.  They have taste sensors on their feet, allowing them to taste the leaves they land on. This helps them find the right plants to lay their eggs on.  They are cold-blooded and rely on the warmth of the sun to fly.  They often bask in the sun to increase their body temperature.   Monarch butterflies are serious about their migration.  These hearty butterflies travel from North America to central Mexico, covering up to 3,000 miles throughout their journey.    There are about 17,500 species of butterflies in the world, with the greatest diversity found in tropical rainforests.  Some butterflies lay their eggs on one specific plant that changes from species to species, one example is the black swallowtails that often lay their eggs on Parsley, Dill, and Queen Anne’s Lace plants.  The largest butterfly species is the female Queen Alexandra birdwings, they can measure up to 27 centimeters and are found in Papua New Guinea.  The smallest species is the western pygmy blue which is measured to have a wingspan of 2 inches. Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month's spotlight is on marigolds!  These flowers also made an appearance on our top 10 drought-tolerant plants, so here's a bit more about them.  They are fast-growing and drought-tolerant, which means they have a full look soon after planting, and are great for new gardeners.  They are also a fun pop of color with vibrant yellows and oranges and a unique blossom shape.  Marigolds also attract insects such as ladybugs, and other predatory bugs that will help with removing insects that would be harmful to your garden.  Bees are also attracted to them, so if you are looking for a way to help (and increase the number of pollinators) your garden marigolds are a great way.  They might attract the good bugs but they can also deter the bad ones, they release a natural oil that has an odor that several insects are deterred by, such as mosquitos. They work great in pots no matter their size, they can also be used as border plants.                                                                                              Do you enjoy plant-related sales and events? Don't miss out! Click below to join our Socials and always know what's happening!

Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries This month we'll be covering seed-starting.   Embarking on the journey of seed starting is an exciting endeavor for gardeners of all levels. Whether you're nurturing delicious culinary herbs or cultivating hearty vegetable plants, the process requires patience, attention to detail, and a basic understanding of the region's unique climate and growing conditions. In this guide, we'll explore the essentials of herb and vegetable seed starting, from selecting the right seeds to nurturing seedlings through to transplanting.    Understanding what Hardiness Zones are and why they matter:   Hardiness zones serve as a valuable tool for gardeners to make informed decisions about plant selection, timing, and garden management practices based on the climatic conditions of their specific region.  By understanding and working within their hardiness zone, gardeners can create thriving and resilient gardens, despite variable weather conditions.   In the colder inland climates of Massachusetts, starting seeds indoors can be the key to getting a decent harvest from warmer weather crops, that require longer growing periods, such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and gourds.   According to the newly updated, 2023 USDA Hardiness Zone map, Bedford is currently in Zone 6B.  The towns surrounding Bedford are also in Zone 6B, except for Carlisle, which starts to dip down into 6A to the West.    When you’re dealing with more permanent yard features such as perennial plants, shrubs, and trees, knowing your Hardiness Zone will help you to know which plants will thrive in your area, as well as winter survivability.  Zone 6B, has an average annual extreme minimum temperature (over the past 10 years) of -5 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit.  It’s worth noting that this is an average and not the lowest temperature that has ever occurred or might occur.    Where we can use this information in planning our gardens, and thus seed starting, is by offering us data on frost dates, the length of growing seasons, and microclimates in our area.  Anyone can cultivate a lemon tree and plant it outside as it grows larger, but New Englanders know that our air and soil temperatures are not going to be hot enough to bear fruit, and our winters would kill it.  Looking at averages over time, our frost-free growing season is approximately May 8th to September 29th.   Now that we have that crucial piece of knowledge for our seed selection, let’s take a look at how to prepare for starting our seeds.  It’s also worth noting that purchasing your seeds at a local Garden Center, such as New England Nurseries, will take some of the guesswork out of determining which plants will grow in your area because that’s what we sell!   (Keep reading to the end of the article for a list of popular herbs and vegetables, and their respective starting timeframes.)   Preparing for Seed Starting:   Gather your supplies before starting your seeds. You will need seed trays, potting mix, seeds, labels, and a watering can or spray bottle. Ensure your seed starting area receives ample sunlight or invest in grow lights to provide adequate illumination for seedlings.   Prepare your seed starting mix by combining equal parts peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite to create a lightweight, well-draining medium.  Or, even better, Garden Centers such as New England Nurseries, sell ready-to-use Seed Starting Mix.  Moisten the mix before filling your seed trays to ensure uniform moisture distribution.   Sowing Seeds:   Follow the planting depth and spacing guidelines provided on the seed packet for each variety. As a general rule, sow seeds at a depth approximately twice the diameter of the seed. Use a pencil or dibber to create furrows in the seed starting mix, then gently press the seeds into the soil and cover them with a thin layer of vermiculite or fine potting mix.   Label each tray with the seed variety and planting date to track the progress of your seedlings. Place the trays in a warm, sunny location or under grow lights to encourage germination. Maintain consistent moisture levels by watering from the bottom or misting the soil surface regularly.   Managing Temperature and Humidity:   Temperature and humidity levels play a crucial role in seed germination and seedling growth. Aim to maintain daytime temperatures between 65°F to 75°F and nighttime temperatures between 55°F to 65°F, for optimal seedling development.   During the germination period, cover seed trays with plastic domes or clear plastic wrap to create a greenhouse-like environment that retains moisture and warmth. Monitor humidity levels and adjust ventilation as needed to prevent fungal diseases and damping-off.   Transplanting Seedlings:   Once seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves and outgrown their seed trays, they are ready for transplanting into larger containers or outdoor garden beds. Harden off seedlings gradually by exposing them to outdoor conditions for increasing periods each day, starting with sheltered locations and gradually transitioning to full sun and wind exposure.   Choose a cloudy or overcast day for transplanting to minimize stress on seedlings. Dig planting holes slightly larger than the root balls of the seedlings and gently tease apart any tangled roots before setting them in the soil at the same depth as they were in the seed trays. Water transplanted seedlings thoroughly to settle the soil and promote root establishment.  The fertilizer company, Bio-tone, makes a soil amendment that is formulated for seedlings that contains mycorrhizae, which is a beneficial fungus that draws nutrients from the soil to the plant.  You would add this during transplanting and not before.    Zone 6 Planting Seed Starting Schedule:   Late-February: Bell Peppers, Celery, Jalapeno Peppers, Leeks, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, and Thyme;   Early to Mid-March: Arugula, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chives, Eggplants, Kale, Sage, and Tomatoes;   Mid-March to Early-April: Basil, Bok Choy, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Collards, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Spinach, Swiss Chard, and Tomatillos;   Early to Mid-April: Cantaloupes, Cucumbers, Okra, Pumpkins, Watermelons, Winter Squash, Zucchini, and Summer Squash;   Things to start outside/directly in the garden (Timing varies, so check seed packets for exact timing): Asparagus, Beets, Carrots, Cilantro, Corn, Dill, Dry Beans, Fava Beans, Green Beans, Onions, Parsnips, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Salsify, Sweet Potatoes.

New England Nurseries Rose Guide Roses are a delightful addition to any yard, offering a vibrant color and a sweet fragrance that can transform outdoor spaces into enchanting retreats. Their diverse varieties provide endless possibilities for gardeners, from climbing roses that adorn trellises with cascading blooms to compact bushes perfect for borders and walkways. Beyond their beauty, roses attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, enhancing the ecological health of your garden. Their timeless elegance and enduring appeal make roses a cherished feature in any landscape. Interested in adding roses as a feature to your yard, but not sure where to start, or which to choose? Check out New England Nurseries’ handy Rose Guide. We’ll take you through the different types of roses, briefly explain rose fragrances, and show you which roses we currently carry. Types of Roses Hybrid Tea Roses: Known for their long stems and classic, elegant blooms, hybrid tea roses are popular for cutting and display in arrangements. They come in a wide range of colors and often have a strong fragrance. Floribunda Roses: These roses produce clusters of flowers on each stem, creating a profusion of color in the garden. They are generally more compact and bushier than hybrid teas and bloom repeatedly throughout the season. Polyantha & Groundcover Roses: Polyantha & Groundcover Roses are shorter plants that have smaller blooms perfect for edgings and hedges. They come in a variety of hues and colors, such as bright whites, lovely soft pinks, and bright reds. Grow them in a small garden space or even in a container. Grandiflora Roses: A cross between hybrid tea roses and floribundas, grandifloras typically produce large, showy blooms on tall stems. They combine the best qualities of both parent types, offering the beauty of hybrid teas with the prolific flowering of floribundas. Climbing Roses: These roses have long, flexible canes that can be trained to grow horizontally or vertically against a support structure such as a trellis, fence, or wall. They add vertical interest to gardens and often produce an abundance of flowers. Shrub Roses: Known for their hardiness and versatility, shrub roses encompass a wide range of varieties, from compact, low-growing bushes to sprawling, large shrubs. They are generally easy to care for and offer continuous blooms throughout the growing season. Miniature Roses: Miniature roses are petite versions of their larger counterparts, with small flowers and compact growth habits. They are well-suited to container gardening and smaller spaces, adding charm and color to balconies, patios, and windowsills. Old Garden Roses: These roses encompass a diverse group of varieties that existed before the introduction of modern rose hybrids in the 19th century. They are prized for their historical significance, fragrance, and often disease-resistant nature. Examples include gallicas, damasks, and albas. English/David Austin Roses: Named after the British rose breeder, David Austin, these roses come in hundreds of varieties. These roses are quite popular. Their rosette-shaped roses have the scent of an Old Rose variety, and also a continuous blooming as well as a broad range of colors like that of Modern Roses. Species Roses: They come in many sizes, shapes, and habits. These are the original, wild, and native roses, parents of many of the bred and engineered roses. Rose Fragrances Explained Fruity: Found across all colors of English Roses, fruity fragrances are diverse, ranging from zesty citrus scents to rich berry and exotic fruit aromas. With notes such as apple, mango, and elderflower, fruity fragrances are fresh and uplifting, each with its own delicious twist. Myrrh: This distinctive scent holds a majestic spiciness and the aromatic warmth of sweet anise. Found almost exclusively in English Roses, it can be an acquired taste due to the medicinal character of licorice notes. Old Rose: Seen as the classic rose fragrance, it is traditional, with warm, heady notes, often softened with a dash of sweetness. Unique in its character, and reminiscent of rose perfumes, it is arguably the most delicious of all the rose fragrances and can be found almost exclusively in pink and red roses. Tea: True to its name, the Tea Rose scent is often said to resemble a freshly opened packet of tea. In English Roses, the aroma most frequently appears in the yellow and apricots. A complex fragrance, it can have sweeter elements of violets and fruitiness mixed with spicy, tar-like qualities of the dominating tea notes. Musk: The musk scent, resembling the old musk used in perfumes, is a warm, rich fragrance that can be both sweet and spicy and, at times, is dominated by the scent of cloves. Unlike other fragrance types, musk is produced in the stamens rather than in the petals of a rose. Musk is often found in ramblers (climbing), where the sheer abundance of flowers creates a heady blanket of perfume. Other Terminology Used to Describe Fragrance Citrusy: Roses with a citrusy fragrance exude a refreshing aroma reminiscent of lemon or orange zest, adding a vibrant and invigorating touch to any bouquet or garden. Spicy: Infused with warm and exotic notes, spicy rose fragrances evoke a sense of depth and intrigue, with hints of cloves, cinnamon, or pepper creating a rich olfactory experience. Floral: Classic and timeless, floral rose fragrances capture the pure essence of the flower itself, with a delicate and romantic aroma that embodies the epitome of elegance and grace. Herbal: With a green and earthy undertone, herbal rose scents evoke the freshness of a garden after rainfall, featuring hints of mint, basil, or eucalyptus for a revitalizing and natural fragrance. * Please note that the fragrance guide, and the fragrances listed over the next few pages, are based on information from rose growers and distributors. Fragrances can vary in scent and intensity from one individual to the next. Rose Rose Name Type Fragrance Blaze Climbing Rose Mild fragrance with a hint of spice Joseph's Coat Climbing Rose Moderate Fra-grance New Dawn Climbing Rose Moderate Fra-grance Graham Thomas David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Benjamin Britten David Austin Eng-lish Rose David Austin Eng-lish Rose Claire Austin David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Crown Princess Margareta David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Darcey Bussell David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Golden Celebration David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Jubilee Celebration David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Olivia Rose Austin David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance The Poet's Wife David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance L.D. Braithwaite English Rose Strong Old Rose Fragrance Harlow Carr English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Lichfield Angel English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Mary Rose English Rose Strong Old Rose Fragrance Munstead Wood English Rose Strong Old Rose Fragrance Pat Austin English Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Queen of Sweden English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Tranquility English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Winchester Cathe-dral English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Campfire Floribunda Rose Light Fragrance Easy Italian Ice Floribunda Rose Mild Citrus Fragrance Easy Going Floribunda Rose Moderate Citrus Fragrance Fragrant Carpet Fragrant lipstick Floribunda Rose Moderate Fragrance High Voltage Floribunda Rose Moderate Fragrance Julia Childs Floribunda Rose Moderate licorice Fragrance Kolorscape Kardi-nal Floribunda Rose Mild Fragrance Kolorscape lemon Fizz Floribunda Rose Mild Citrus Fragrance Lavender Veranda Floribunda Rose Light Fragrance Princess Alexandra Floribunda Rose Moderate Fragrance Sweet Spot Ruby Floribunda Rose Mild Fragrance Sweet Spot Yellow Floribunda Rose Mild Fragrance Take it Easy Floribunda Rose Moderate Fra-grance Whipped Cream Rose Floribunda Rose Moderate Fra-grance Music Box Rose Grandiflora Rose Light Fragrance Rise Up lilac Days Grandiflora Rose Light Fragrance Coral Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Pink Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Popcorn Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Red Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Anna's Promise Hybrid Tea Rose Strong citrus and fruity fragrance Miracle on the Hud-son Hybrid Tea Rose Moderate Fra-grance Grandma's Bless-ing Hybrid Tea Rose Strong Fra-grance Pink Miracle Hybrid Tea Rose Strong Fra-grance Sunorita Hybrid Tea Rose Moderate Fra-grance Sweet Fragrance Hybrid Tea Rose Strong Fra-grance True Bloom True Passion Hybrid Tea Rose Moderate Fra-grance The Fairy Polyantha Rose Mild Fragrance At Jast Shrub Rose Moderate spicy fragrance Blushing Knock Out Shrub Rose Light, sweet fra-grance Coral Cove Shrub Rose Light Citrus Fra-grance Double Knock Out Shrub Rose Įight Fragrance Double Red Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Easy Elegance Ca-lypso Shrub Rose Moderate Fragrance Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Knock Out Petite Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Peachy Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Pink Double Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Pink Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Rainbow Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Sunny Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Father Hugo's Rose Species/Shrub Rose Strong Įemon Fragrance Rugosa Rose Species/Shrub Rose Strong Fra-grance Rugosa Rose White Species/Shrub Rose Strong Fra-grance Virginiana Rose Species/Shrub Rose Strong Fra-grance

Did you know that some plants require a period of cold in order to thrive?  Thus, they are best planted in the fall.  The process is called cold stratification.  Read on to learn more and check out which plants you should be planting this fall.   Cold stratification is a process that mimics the natural winter conditions many plant seeds need to break dormancy and germinate successfully in the spring.  In Massachusetts, the cold winters naturally provide the necessary conditions for these seeds.  Here is a list of plant seeds that typically require cold stratification:   Perennial Flowers and Wildflowers Milkweed (Asclepias spp.)  Essential for monarch butterflies; seeds need cold stratification for 30-60 days. Lupines (Lupinus spp.)  Requires stratification for 30-60 days for better germination rates. Echinacea (Coneflowers, Echinacea spp.)  Seeds should be cold stratified for 30-90 days. Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)  Cold stratification for 30-60 days improves germination. Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)  Needs 3-4 weeks of cold stratification for optimal germination. Penstemon (Penstemon spp.)  Typically needs 30-60 days of stratification. Poppies (Papaver spp.)  Some varieties benefit from cold stratification for 30 days. Primrose (Primula spp.)  Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Baptisia (False Indigo)  Needs cold stratification for 4-6 weeks. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)  Cold stratify for about 30 days for best results. Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium spp.)  Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)  Requires cold stratification for about 60 days. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)  Needs cold stratification for 30-60 days.   Native Grasses Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)  Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)  Cold stratify for 30-60 days. Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis)  Benefits from cold stratification for 30 days. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)  Requires cold stratification for about 30 days.   Trees and Shrubs Redbud (Cercis canadensis)  Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)  Requires 60-90 days of stratification. Maple (Acer spp.)  Many species require 40-90 days of cold stratification. Dogwood (Cornus spp.)  Seeds need 90-120 days of cold stratification. Hazelnut (Corylus spp.)  Requires 90-120 days of cold stratification. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)  Needs a longer cold stratification period of 90-120 days. Oak (Quercus spp.)  Acorns often require 30-60 days of cold stratification.   Herbs Lavender (Lavandula spp.)  Some varieties require 30-40 days of cold stratification. Echinacea (Coneflower)  Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Angelica (Angelica archangelica)  Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Asparagus  Plant crowns or seeds in the fall for establishment over winter. Rhubarb  Plant crowns in the fall; they will establish roots over winter.   Vegetables        (These plants don’t require  cold stratification in order to germinate properly, but they could overwinter nicely for an early harvest!) Garlic  Plant cloves in the fall for a summer harvest. Onions (Sets or Seeds) Fall planting can lead to larger bulbs in the spring. Shallots  Similar to garlic, plant in the fall for a summer harvest. Carrots  Some varieties can be planted in the fall and overwintered for an early spring harvest. Spinach  Cold-hardy and will often overwinter for early spring growth. Kale  Can be planted in late fall; it will grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool. Radishes  Some varieties can be sown in the fall and harvested before the ground freezes or in early spring. Turnips  Sow seeds in late summer to early fall for a fall harvest or overwintering. Cover Crops Winter Rye  Excellent for soil improvement and erosion control; plant in late fall. Crimson Clover  Adds nitrogen to the soil and protects it over winter. Field Peas  A legume that fixes nitrogen and provides organic matter. Hairy Vetch  Fixes nitrogen and adds biomass to the soil.

In Eastern Massachusetts, the average first frost date is between October 1st and 15th. And, New Englander’s know that when we get a frost warning, it’s time to cover plants, or bring them indoors when you can. Do you know which plants need this special care? If not, we’re here to help. The plant list below will tell you which plants typically need to be brought indoors, covered, or otherwise protected when frost is expected. Some perennials can survive a cold Massachusetts winter if they're mulched heavily or grown in more sheltered locations, but many will need to be treated as annuals or moved indoors over the winter. For example, you can grow the same Dahlia tubers year to year, but you’ll want to dig up and store the tubers indoors until Spring. If you want to learn more about which plants you’ll want to consider storing for the winter, check out our Tender Perennials to Winter Indoors, website post. Frost-Sensitive Annuals Marigolds (Tagetes) Zinnias (Zinnia elegans) Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) Begonias (Begonia spp.) Petunias (Petunia spp.) Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides) Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) Morning Glories (Ipomoea spp.) Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) Frost-Sensitive Perennials Dahlias (Dahlia spp.) Cannas (Canna spp.) Elephant Ears (Colocasia spp.) Gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.) Tender Ferns (e.g., Boston Fern) Tuberous Begonias (Begonia tuberhybrida) Fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.) Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia) Salvia (Salvia splendens) New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) Frost-Sensitive Vegetables and Herbs By our first frost, most of these plants will have been harvested, done growing, and/or dying off. However, in case you have some particularly robust plants or we have an especially early frost, keep the following plants in mind during a frost warning. Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) Peppers (Capsicum spp.) Eggplants (Solanum melongena) Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) Squash (Cucurbita spp.) Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Beans (Phaseolus spp.) Corn (Zea mays) Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) Dill (Anethum graveolens) Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) Frost-Sensitive Flowering Shrubs Hydrangeas (some varieties, e.g., Hydrangea macrophylla) Tropical Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.) Thanks for reading! Check out more advice and plant-facts at newenglandnurseries.com .

Designing a New Garden for Beginners Have you decided to try your hand at gardening? Gardening is a fun and rewarding hobby for New England residents. But where do you start? If you’re a beginner, the prospect of designing a garden can be daunting. You may be wondering how to start a flower garden or how to draw a garden plan. That’s why our Bedford Garden Center has put together this handy guide for designing a garden for beginners. Just follow these simple steps and you’ll have a beautiful garden in no time. Create a Plan The first step in designing a garden is to create a plan. This doesn’t have to be a complicated process. Simply grab a pen and paper and sketch out a rough idea of what you envision for your garden. Consider the size and shape of your yard, as well as the amount of sunlight it receives. Then, decide what type of garden you’d like to create. Do you want a flower garden, a vegetable garden, or a mix of both? Once you have a general idea of what you want, it’s time to start planning your garden layout. Choose Your Plants Now that you have a plan for your garden, it’s time to choose your plants. When selecting plants, it’s important to consider the climate in New England. Some plants may not thrive in our cooler temperatures and shorter growing seasons. Our gardening experts at New England Nurseries can help you choose the best plants for your garden. Prepare Your Soil After you’ve selected your plants, it’s time to prepare your soil. This is an important step in ensuring that your plants will have the nutrients they need to grow. The type of soil you have will determine how you need to prepare it. For example, if you have sandy soil, you’ll need to add organic matter to help retain moisture. If you have clay soil, you’ll need to add sand to improve drainage. Once you’ve prepared your soil, you’re ready to plant. Plant Your Garden Now that your soil is ready, it’s time to start planting. Be sure to plant your taller plants in the back and shorter plants in the front. This will ensure that all of your plants are visible. Be sure that you are planting your selections in the right time of year. Some plants need to be started indoors and then transplanted outdoors. Others can be planted directly in the ground. Our experts at New England Nurseries can help you determine the best time to plant your garden. Water and Fertilize Your Plants Once your plants are in the ground, they will need regular watering and fertilizing. How often you need to water and fertilize will depend on the type of plants you’re growing. Be sure to check the labels on your plants or ask our experts for guidance. With regular watering and fertilizing, your garden will soon be in full bloom. New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!