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Designing a New Garden for Beginners Have you decided to try your hand at gardening? Gardening is a fun and rewarding hobby for New England residents. But where do you start? If you’re a beginner, the prospect of designing a garden can be daunting. You may be wondering how to start a flower garden or how to draw a garden plan. That’s why our Bedford Garden Center has put together this handy guide for designing a garden for beginners. Just follow these simple steps and you’ll have a beautiful garden in no time. Create a Plan The first step in designing a garden is to create a plan. This doesn’t have to be a complicated process. Simply grab a pen and paper and sketch out a rough idea of what you envision for your garden. Consider the size and shape of your yard, as well as the amount of sunlight it receives. Then, decide what type of garden you’d like to create. Do you want a flower garden, a vegetable garden, or a mix of both? Once you have a general idea of what you want, it’s time to start planning your garden layout. Choose Your Plants Now that you have a plan for your garden, it’s time to choose your plants. When selecting plants, it’s important to consider the climate in New England. Some plants may not thrive in our cooler temperatures and shorter growing seasons. Our gardening experts at New England Nurseries can help you choose the best plants for your garden. Prepare Your Soil After you’ve selected your plants, it’s time to prepare your soil. This is an important step in ensuring that your plants will have the nutrients they need to grow. The type of soil you have will determine how you need to prepare it. For example, if you have sandy soil, you’ll need to add organic matter to help retain moisture. If you have clay soil, you’ll need to add sand to improve drainage. Once you’ve prepared your soil, you’re ready to plant. Plant Your Garden Now that your soil is ready, it’s time to start planting. Be sure to plant your taller plants in the back and shorter plants in the front. This will ensure that all of your plants are visible. Be sure that you are planting your selections in the right time of year. Some plants need to be started indoors and then transplanted outdoors. Others can be planted directly in the ground. Our experts at New England Nurseries can help you determine the best time to plant your garden. Water and Fertilize Your Plants Once your plants are in the ground, they will need regular watering and fertilizing. How often you need to water and fertilize will depend on the type of plants you’re growing. Be sure to check the labels on your plants or ask our experts for guidance. With regular watering and fertilizing, your garden will soon be in full bloom. New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!

Deadheading is the process of removing spent blooms or foliage from flowers and plants. This can be done by simply snapping off the bloom at the stem, or cutting it back to a leaf node (the point where leaves are attached to the stem). Deadheading not only helps your plants look neater but can also encourage new growth. Why Do I Need to Deadhead Flowers? There are a few reasons why you might want to deadhead your flowers. For one, it can help them to look their best – removing spent blooms will give the plant a neater appearance. Additionally, deadheading can encourage new growth, as the plant will put its energy into producing new blooms rather than into producing seeds. Deadheading can also prevent the spread of diseases, as pathogens can often enter a plant through spent blooms. Which Flowers Can You Deadhead? Almost any flower can be deadheaded, but there are a few that benefit particularly from this practice. Annual flowers, such as impatiens and petunias, will often bloom more profusely if you deadhead them regularly. Perennials, such as daisies and coneflowers, can also be deadheaded to promote more growth. How to Deadhead Flowers in Your Garden Now that you know what deadheading is and why you should do it, you may be wondering how to go about it. Deadheading is a simple process, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure you have sharp pruning shears or scissors – this will make the job easier and prevent damage to the plant. Second, be sure to cut at an angle just above a leaf node – this will encourage new growth. Finally, be sure to add fertilizer after you’re done, as deadheading can be taxing on the plant. How to Deadhead: Annuals vs. Perennials Annual flowers, such as impatiens and petunias, will often bloom more profusely if you deadhead them regularly. You can deadhead them once or twice a week to create more blooms. Perennials, such as daisies and coneflowers, can also be deadheaded to ensure that your plants grow as many flowers as possible. Plants You Should Deadhead Some of the best plants to deadhead are: Columbine Garden cosmos Geraniums Lavender Hollyhock Rose campion Larkspur Daisies Wild violets Plants You Should Not Deadhead While many plants can be deadheaded, some should be left alone. They include: Barrenwort Joe-Pye weed Leopard plant Peony Goat’s beard New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!

How to Get Rid of and Prevent Bugs on Indoor Plants There is a wide range of plants that can thrive in an indoor environment and grow successfully in a pot or container. Indoor plants bring along many benefits, including improving air quality, reducing stress, and improving overall environmental wellness. However, indoor plants can attract and retain bugs. Luckily, there are many ways to address and eliminate this problem. The Basic Needs of Indoor Plants There are seven basic needs for indoor plants to thrive: The right amount of water Temperatures of 60 degrees and up Consistent light Potting soil with nutrients The right size pots Fertilizer Pest management Health Benefits of Indoor Plants Indoor plants bring a variety of health benefits to their environment, such as: Improved Air Quality – Indoor plants replace carbon dioxide with fresh oxygen that has reduced amounts of air pollution like mold and mildew. Stress Reduction – Caring for indoor plants can reduce the stress of those doing the caring. Interacting with indoor plants creates a meaningful connection that is good for overall mental health. Improved Sense of Well-Being – Indoor plants can help improve focus and reduce anxious or depressive feelings. Seven Most Common Indoor Plant Bugs Indoor plants are at risk of attracting and housing unwanted pests. The seven most common bugs found on indoor plants include: Aphids Scale Thrips Mealybugs Spider mites Fungus gnats Whiteflies Why Do Indoor Plants Have Bugs? Indoor plants are the perfect place for bugs because there are no natural predators present. In addition, inside conditions often have high humidity and low air circulation, creating a warm, enticing place where bugs want to live and reproduce. Fortunately, there are ways to eliminate pests from indoor plants, and ways to prevent infestations from happening in the first place. Your first line of defense is to determine exactly what type of pest your plant has. We can help you with this through a sample of the pest. This is best done by bringing in the specimen – on an affected leaf or stem – in a sealed plastic baggie. How to Get Rid of Bugs on Indoor Plants There are different remedies for getting rid of bugs depending on the type of pest or plant: Bugs on Indoor Plant Leaves – To get rid of bugs that are feeding on indoor plant leaves, first isolate the plant and clean the surrounding area. Then, wash the plant leaves and clean the pot. Use a cotton swab that has been soaked in rubbing alcohol to kill the remaining bugs. Lastly, utilize an insecticide to keep the bugs from returning. Flying Bugs – To get rid of flying bugs, use sticky stakes or sticky traps to capture and kill the flying bugs. To eliminate eggs, follow the same steps to get rid of bugs on indoor plant leaves. Bugs in Soil – To get rid of bugs living and breeding in the soil of an indoor plant, first remove the top layer of soil in the pot and throw it out. Replace the missing soil with fresh soil and drench the soil with a mix of 10 drops of liquid dish soap in a quart of water. How to Prevent Bugs on Indoor Plants Preventing bugs from invading indoor plants is easier and more effective than trying to get rid of them once they’re infested. Here are six ways to prevent bugs from attacking indoor plants: Don’t Overwater – Soil that is damp and soggy is perfect for breeding bugs. Soil should be dry on top before watering again to maintain a healthy balance of moisture. Keep an Eye Out for Bugs – Regularly look for signs of bugs so they can be addressed quickly, reducing the extent of the infestation. Ensure Good Air Flow – Proper air circulation gets rid of stale air that can attract bugs. Only Use Clean Pots – Always wash pots before using them and never put plants in a dirty pot that could already be infested with bugs. Clean Up Leaves – Leaves that have fallen off a plant and are laying on top of the soil are an ideal spot for bugs to live and breed. Keep Plants Healthy – A healthy plant is much less likely to be attacked and infested with unwanted bugs. New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!

December has arrived, and New England Nurseries is alive with holiday magic!   Customers are filling their carts with wreaths, trees, and unique ornaments, while our staff stays busy handcrafting porch pots and helping load up cars with seasonal treasures. The warmth and joy of the season are everywhere, making every visit a festive experience. Stop by soon to pick out your holiday favorites and let us help make your season merry and bright! New England Nurseries' Monthly Gardening Guide: December 2024 Did you know you can plant spring-flowering bulbs until the ground is frozen solid? If you can dig a hole with a shovel or spade, you can still plant! With a mild New England winter, you could potentially plant into January! With that said, it’s the perfect time to visit New England Nurseries and take advantage of great deals on our remaining bulbs. Don’t forget another important tip: keep watering your plants until the ground is completely frozen Test the soil around your plants and gardens - if it’s not frozen solid, your plants still need water. Different areas of your yard may freeze at different rates, so check various beds to make sure everything is covered. Our Top 10: Stocking Stuffers! Ever have something you are curious about, but never took the time to look up? For me, that was Christmas Stockings, until just now. What is the deal with the stockings or socks hung up on fireplaces? Christmas stockings are believed to have originated from the legend of Saint Nicholas, a 4th-century bishop known for his generosity. According to the tale, Saint Nicholas heard of a poor widower with three daughters who couldn’t afford dowries. To help, Nicholas secretly dropped gold coins down their chimney, which landed in stockings hung by the fireplace to dry. Well, that is an interesting tidbit of knowledge to share with the family during the holidays! And, with that, we'd like to share our Top 10 stocking stuffers from New England Nurseries. These small treasures are worth their weight in gold! This 4x6 Cavallini & Co 2025 planner. It's the perfect size to toss in a bag and keep with you so you never forget an appointment, meeting, or important to-do. The Cavalinni & Co mini pouch. There are so many uses for this cute canvas bag. It would make for a great pen & pencil pouch, makeup storage, travel jewelry bag, and more. A small wind chime. Perfect for an office or bedroom window. Naked Bee products. Save those hands this winter! This adorable Merry Mini Tree is by (local company) FreshCut Paper. A pair of Barebones scissors/nippers. These are perfect for the houseplant lover in your life. They are made from stainless steel, with a walnut handle, and an ambidextrous grip, they're rust-resistant and come with a 5-year warranty. How about a seed ornament for the avid Birder in your life? For the crafty ones in the family, a Rolife Dreamy Terrace Garden is a great stocking stuffer. Another one for the Birders of all ages - an Audubon stuffed bird with a real bird call. And last, but not least, a fun nature-inspired umbrella! Gardening Trends We could never give up on gardening, even in the winter. Let's dish about Dish Gardens. Dish gardens are a delightful way to bring greenery into your home, combining various small plants in a single decorative container. They’re easy to care for and offer endless design possibilities. Here's what you need to know: Dish gardens date back to Victorian times when terrariums and indoor plant arrangements became fashionable. They are excellent gifts and can be customized for any occasion with themed decorations. And, they are eco-friendly, using less water and space than traditional potted plants. Which plants to use? Choose plants with similar light and watering needs. Here are some great options: Succulents : Echeveria, jade plant, and Haworthia. Cacti : Small varieties like moon cacti or pincushion cacti. Ferns : Button fern or maidenhair fern (for higher humidity environments). Tropical Plants : Miniature versions of pothos, philodendrons, or dracaenas. Air Plants : These can be tucked into the design for a unique touch. Herbs : Parsley, thyme, or basil can work for a culinary-themed garden. How to create your very own miniature indoor garden: Select a Container : Choose a shallow dish or bowl with or without drainage holes. If there are no drainage holes, add a thick layer of pebbles or activated charcoal to the bottom to prevent root rot. Add Soil : Use a soil mix appropriate for your plants. For succulents and cacti, a fast-draining cactus mix works best. For tropical plants, use a standard potting mix. Arrange Plants : Plan your layout before planting. Place taller plants in the back or center, and use smaller plants or ground covers like moss to fill gaps. Plant : Carefully remove each plant from its pot, loosen the roots slightly, and plant it at the same depth as it was in its original pot. Decorate : Add decorative stones, moss, or small figurines to enhance the garden's aesthetic. Tips on watering and plant care: Succulents and Cacti : Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Tropical Plants and Ferns : Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Check Soil : Always check the soil moisture with your finger before watering. Lighting : Most dish gardens do well in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight unless you’re growing succulents or cacti. Humidity : Tropical plants may appreciate occasional misting. Pruning : Trim back overgrown plants to maintain balance and prevent overcrowding. Fertilizing : Feed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Did You Know? Fun Plant Facts. Aside from our fresh-cut Christmas trees, the magic moves indoors in December, where our greenhouse truly shines this season. Let's take a look at Poinsettias. We've posted about this misunderstood plant in the past, and it's worth revisiting. Fact, fiction, or old folk tale?   Are poinsettias toxic to your pets or children?  Let's look deeper at this festive, yet often avoided, flowering plant.  Poinsettias (pronounced poyn-seh-tee-uh) are indigenous to Mexico and Central America, where in hardiness zones of 9 – 11, they can grow up to 13.1 feet tall as a perennial shrub!  Known for their vibrant red petals, called bracts, Poinsettias come in a wider variety of reds, pinks, and whites.  You can even find novelty poinsettias that boast a red and white spray-painted, speckled, look.  In its native land, the poinsettia is called Flor de Nochebuena, or Christmas Eve flower.  This holiday favorite was introduced to the US in the 1820s by the first US Minister to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett. (Wikipedia, n.d.)  So, are Poinsettia toxic?  The answer is a surprising – no .  In 1919 there was one death that occurred in the vicinity of a poinsettia plant.  That implicated the plant as the cause, and from there urban legend and erroneous reporting spread the misinformation across the United States.  Since then, scientists have tried to find the toxicity threshold of the poinsettia but quit after the subject ate upward of 500 – 600 leaves with no significant ill effect.  Ingestion of the plant by humans or pets can, however, cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. ( Poison.org , n.d.)  Like any house plant, it could also pose a choking hazard.  The takeaway?  Go on out and grab yourself one of these cheery, holiday plants and display it confidently!  But, still keep it out of reach of curious little creatures.  Greenery or Gear: Product Spotlight You have to travel for the holidays but are concerned about the dry air and your precious indoor plants? Check out this wick-based watering system by Wicked Waterer. It comes with four units in a package, and all you need to do is place the spiked end into your plant’s soil and the other end into a jar or bottle of water.

Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  May May in Massachusetts, or all of New England, is a tough time for gardeners.  Temperatures are getting warmer, our perennials are blooming, and we want to get those annuals planted and growing.  But, the threat of overnight frost looms over us.  At least, until mid-May.  So, what can an eager gardener do? Consider planting some of your favorite annuals in large pots that can be moved into a garage or shed, if necessary.  You can also plant your annuals and cover them overnight if there is a threat of frost.  There are several products on the market to protect tender plants overnight.  These include Harvest-Guard Protective Garden Cover or burlap.  You can also use an overturned pot, bucket, or light sheet.  Just ensure whatever you use is secure enough that it won’t blow off the plant in the middle of the night. If you’re planning to sow vegetable seeds directly in your garden, early May is the time to plant your green onions, carrots, lettuce, and Swiss chard.  Mid to late May is a good time to plant pole beans, turnips, bush beans, and corn.  And, the last week of May to early June is the time to plant your vining plants such as cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins.  If you haven’t started your seeds indoors, you’ll want to purchase pre-started transplants, if you want to grow tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.  Plant those in your garden at the end of May.   Our Monthly Top 10 This month we’ll be talking about 10 easy-care shrubs that will give you immediate curb appeal with little maintenance.  Our one caveat here, is that every plant or shrub has conditions in which they thrive best.  So, follow the basic care instructions on the following shrubs and enjoy your landscaping without constantly fussing over it.  1. Spirea: Once established, spirea require little watering.  So long as they are planted in a well-draining area, they can adapt to various soil types and pH levels.  Trimming the shrub after the first bloom could potentially initiate a second bloom, and as a bonus, the foliage changes color in autumn providing fall appeal.   2. Hydrangea: Hydrangeas like hydration.  It’s in the name!  But they require little pruning.  They come in many colors and will grow in sun or shade.  Their huge, clustered blooms, provide a showy addition to your landscape.   3. Arborvitae: This evergreen shrub needs no to little pruning, and has dense foliage, making it a top pick for privacy hedging.    4. Weigela: Weigela is versatile in that it can be grown as hedges or borders, as well as, in containers.  Their showy flowers attract bees and butterflies, they like part to full sun and are deer-resistant.  5. Viburnum: These shrubs are not fussy about soil, enjoy full sun to partial shade, and their clusters of flowers smell amazing.    6. Forsythia: Once New Englanders see Forsythia in bloom, we know that Spring has finally arrived!  They sport those familiar yellow blooms, but even after bloom, they offer pretty green foliage through to autumn.  Forsythia is great as stand-alone shrubs or part of a hedge.  Fun fact, Forsythia are part of the olive family.    7. Lilac: Lilac is another Spring favorite with blooms that range from white, through shades of pink, to the familiar purple.  They like full sun and well-drained soil.  You don’t need to fertilize lilac very often.  Doing so may inhibit its flower growth.   8. Azaleas: These shrubs can live on with little to no maintenance.  They add instant yard appeal with Spring flowers that cover the entire shrub.  Azaleas come in a vast array of colors so they look great in any landscape.       9. Boxwood: Boxwood is another evergreen shrub that makes for a great stand-alone shrub, a hedge, or can be trimmed as a topiary.  They can be placed in full sun or partial shade.    10. Winterberry: If you have an area with poor drainage, Winterberry is your friend.  Winterberry is part of the Holly family and has green foliage in warmer months that turns golden in autumn.  It’s capable of growing in full shade but at the expense of flowers and berries.    Gardening Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at the growing trend of small-space gardening, such as containers and micro-gardens.  Container, vertical, and raised-bed gardening aren’t new concepts, but in the past few years they have gained in popularity and the trend continues upward.  Container and micro-gardening are a versatile way to grow herbs, veggies, and fruit in small yards, urban spaces, and even indoors.    Some of the many benefits of container gardening include: 1. Space Efficiency: Containers allow you to grow plants in small spaces like balconies, patios, decks, and rooftops.  Many edible and fruit-bearing plants grow very well in hanging baskets as well.    2. Portability: Containers are movable, allowing you to position your plants to optimize sunlight exposure and protection from harsh weather conditions.   3. Soil Control: You have complete control over the soil composition, drainage, and pH when using containers, which can be particularly advantageous for plants with specific soil requirements.   4. Weed Control: Container gardening minimizes weed growth, as the plants are isolated from the ground where weed seeds typically reside.   5. Pest Management: Containers make it easier to monitor and manage pests, as you can isolate affected plants and implement targeted pest control measures without affecting the entire garden.   6. Disease Prevention: Container gardening reduces the risk of soil-borne diseases, as you can start with fresh, sterile soil and avoid soil contamination from previous plantings.   7. Accessibility: Containers can be raised to a comfortable height, reducing the need for bending or kneeling, which makes gardening more accessible for individuals with mobility issues.   8. Season Extension: Containers can be moved indoors during colder weather, extending the growing season for certain plants and allowing you to enjoy fresh produce year-round.   9. Aesthetic Appeal: Containers come in various sizes, shapes, and materials, allowing you to create visually appealing arrangements that complement your outdoor or indoor living space.   10. Experimentation: Container gardening provides an opportunity to experiment with different plant varieties and growing techniques, enabling you to learn and adapt your gardening practices based on your experiences.   Need some ideas on where to get started?  If you want to try out large pots, try strawberries, bush tomatoes, bush beans, peppers, garlic, eggplant, spinach, or lettuce.  If you have a bunch of old flower pots hanging around, decorate your outdoor surfaces with little herb and tea gardens.  And, to try your hand at hanging baskets, try out strawberries, vining tomatoes, peas or beans, cucumbers, or lettuce.  An important note about container gardening – in the heat of summer the soil can dry faster than traditional gardens.  You may need to water your plants more than once per day, so monitor them closely.   Did You Know? - Fun Plant Facts Scientists have discovered a fascinating interaction between flowers and bees.  We know that bees eat nectar (for energy) and pollen (for protein and nutrients), and the beneficial side effect is cross-pollination, but there is so much more happening when that interaction occurs. Dr. Gregory Sutton, and his team, at the University of Bristol in the UK, studied the interaction more closely and found that flowers are negatively charged by the air around them at about 30 volts.  And bees, flapping their wings at around 200 beats per second, build up a positive charge.  When a bee gets close to a flower there is an electrical interaction between the two.  The pollen in the flower is attracted to the hairs on the bee's body via static electricity and jumps onto the bee.  Another interesting fact is that, for a short time after a bee visits a flower, the negative and positive charges cancel each other out.  When another bee draws near that flower, it can sense that the flower has no electric charge at that time and moves on to another flower.    To learn more, go to Sciencefriday.com ( https://www.sciencefriday.com/educational-resources/bumblebee-static-electricity/ ) or NPR.org ( https://tinyurl.com/muwwnpcr ) and to watch (and hear) the interaction take place check out the YouTube video by David Attenborough ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee381dCP6JM ). Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month’s spotlight is on an interesting and versatile houseplant – the Staghorn Fern.  Staghorn Ferns are epiphytes, which means they grow on other plants without harming them.  Aside from their unique antler-like look, being epiphytes, they can be mounted on wooden plants or other wooden features such as large branches.  This gives them a living art or living sculpture esthetic.  When well cared for they can live for decades.  In hot and humid landscapes, such as Florida, they can grow outside and have been recorded as large as 10 feet wide and 6 feet tall.  Aside from their unique look, they are excellent air purifiers and remove toxins and pollutants from their surroundings.  They thrive in indirect, bright light, and have specific watering needs.  We have many interesting specimens in stock now, come check them out!

Dig Up and Clean Bulbs Timing: Dig up tender bulbs (e.g., dahlias, cannas, gladiolus) after the first light frost when the foliage begins to wither. Cleaning: Gently shake off excess soil and remove any remaining foliage. Avoid washing the bulbs, as excess moisture can lead to rot.   Cure the Bulbs Curing Process: Lay the bulbs in a single layer in a dry, well-ventilated area for 1-2 weeks. This step allows the outer skins to dry and toughen, which helps prevent rot during storage. Ideal Conditions: Cure the bulbs in a spot with good air circulation and temperatures around 60-70°F (15-21°C).   Inspect and Prepare Bulbs for Storage Inspection: Discard any bulbs that show signs of mold, rot, or pest damage. Dusting with Fungicide (Optional): To prevent fungal growth, dust bulbs with a fungicide powder before storing.   Pack the Bulbs Material: Use paper bags, mesh bags, or cardboard boxes lined with newspaper. Avoid plastic containers or sealed bags, as they trap moisture and cause rot. Insulating Medium: Place bulbs in layers with peat moss, vermiculite, sawdust, or dry sand to help absorb excess moisture and keep them dry.   Store in an Appropriate Location Temperature: Store bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry place with a temperature range of 35-50°F (1-10°C). Basements, unheated garages, or root cellars are often ideal locations. Humidity: Ensure the storage area has moderate humidity to prevent bulbs from drying out or becoming too moist. Air Circulation: Maintain good ventilation to prevent mold and mildew.   Monitor Bulbs Periodically Check Monthly: Inspect the bulbs every few weeks to ensure they are firm and free from rot or mold. Adjust Moisture: If the bulbs are drying out, lightly mist the insulating medium to add a bit of moisture. If mold is present, remove affected bulbs and increase ventilation. Prepare for Planting Rehydrate (Optional): Before planting in spring, some gardeners soak bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate them. Plan Early Planting: Once the danger of frost has passed, plant the bulbs in the garden according to their specific growing requirements.

New England Nurseries’ Monthly Gardening Guide:  November The cold weather is starting to creep in, but it's not too late to finish your gardening tasks. There's still time to plant and fertilize, and don't forget to keep watering your plants! Read on for your November garden tasks. ·        Storing spring-flowering bulbs:  If you’ve dug up your spring-flowering bulbs, but aren’t sure what to do with them next, check out our Bulb Storing Guide.    ·        Keep watering:  This task is important , ongoing, and often overlooked!  Once temperatures start to drop, so does watering.  If the ground is not frozen, your plants are still taking up water.  They won’t need as much water as they do in summer, but you should aim for 1” per week.  Rain gauges can be helpful for this information.   ·        Cut back perennials:  Now that we’ve had a few killing frosts, and foliage is wilting and yellowed, it’s time to tidy the remainder of the garden.  Cutting back perennials in the fall helps maintain a tidy garden, prevents disease, and pests, and promotes healthy growth for the next season.   Use sharp, clean pruners to cut stems down to about 2-3 inches above the ground.  One note, however, avoid cutting back beneficial perennials like coneflowers (Echinacea) and ornamental grasses, as they can be left for winter interest and to provide food for birds.    ·        Weed the garden:  While this task may seem like a spring activity, it’s best to pull up those remaining weeds now.  By doing this, you’ll keep them from coming up stronger in the spring.   ·        Fertilize:  November is a great time to fertilize the grass and garden if you haven’t yet.  Extended forecasts show potential for precipitation this month as well as some milder temperatures here and there.  But don’t delay much longer as winter is on its way soon.   ·        Prepare and put away pots and tools:  For those pots that you didn’t bring inside already, you’ll want to remove any dead plant debris and store the soil (if no plant disease was present).  This is especially important for your ceramic and clay pots as they could break if not stored empty.  And, as always, make sure your tools are clean and stored properly, and they’ll serve you for a very long time.   ·        Protect your shrubs throughout the winter:  There are several ways to winterize your shrubs.  If in a particularly vulnerable area, such as near an overhang, protect with a wooden A-frame, that will shield your shrubs from heavy snow and icicles.  Other ways to protect sensitive or exposed shrubs are to: ·        Wrap them in burlap or breathable plant fabric to shield against windburn and frost damage.  Secure the burlap with twine or stakes to keep it in place, but make sure not to wrap it too tightly, as this can restrict airflow. ·        Tie up branches to prevent snow damage.  For shrubs with multiple stems or delicate branches (e.g., arborvitae), gently tie them together with soft twine or garden tape to prevent branches from splaying under heavy snow.  Start from the bottom and work upward, ensuring the branches are secured but not overly tight.     Our Monthly Top 10: With our Christmas Trees ready to arrive in a few short weeks.  Let’s take a look at 10 trees that have been used as Christmas Trees throughout history in New England.    1.       Fraser Fir:  Pronounced (FRA-zure), the Fraser Fir has short, soft needles with a silvery underside, strong branches, and excellent needle retention.  Fraser’s have a strong and pleasant fragrance and is a top choice based on its symmetrical shape and long-lasting freshness.   2.       Balsam Fir:  Balsams have dark green needles, dense foliage, and a traditional shape.  They are very fragrant and are often associated with the classic Christmas tree smell.  These trees are known for holding their needles well.   3.       Cook Blue Balsam Fir:  These trees are celebrated for their striking blue-green needles and pleasant, classic balsam scent, perfect for holiday displays or year-round landscaping.  They have soft, aromatic needles and a natural, full shape, making them an excellent choice for Christmas trees that retain their freshness throughout the season.   4.       Douglas Fir:  Douglas Fir Trees are soft, shiny green needles that radiate in all directions.  They have a sweet and subtle fragrance.  They are loved for their full, bushy appearance and strong branches.    5.       White Pine:  White Pines have long, soft blue-green needles, and flexible branches.  They have a light pine scent and are chosen for their soft texture.  Their branches are, however, not ideal for heavy ornaments.   6.       Scotch Pine:  Scotch Pines have stiff, medium-length needles with good color retention and a fresh pine scent.  They are known for their excellent needle retention, even as the tree dries out.   7.       Blue Spruce:  Blue Spruce Trees have stiff, silvery-blue needles and strong branches.  They have a mild fragrance and are valued for their unique color and sturdy branches that hold ornaments well.   8.       Concolor Fir:  Concolors have soft, bluish-green needles with a citrusy fragrance.  They are increasing in popularity for their unique scent and long needle retention.   9.       Noble Fir:  The Noble Fir has stiff branches and blue-green needles with an upward curve.  They have a strong and pleasant fragrance and are considered one of the best for their sturdy branches and elegant appearance.   10.   Canaan Fir:  The Canaan Fir is a hybrid of balsam and Fraser firs, with traits from both.  The fragrance is similar to a balsam, and it possesses good needle retention.     This Month’s “ Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts ” is a pop quiz.  Considering what you've just learned about popular Christmas trees and their characteristics, which type of tree would you classify the iconic Charlie Brown Christmas Tree as?   Current Gardening Trends:   Leaving the leaves.  There has been an increase in chatter about gardeners leaving the rake in the garden shed and letting nature take its course.  Let’s take a deeper look into a few of the ecological and practical benefits of leaving the leaves in the garden. ·        Natural Mulch and Soil Enrichment:  As leaves decompose, they release nutrients back into the soil, enriching it naturally without the need for synthetic fertilizers.  A layer of leaves helps retain soil moisture by reducing evaporation, which is beneficial for plant roots.  Leaves can inhibit the growth of weeds by blocking sunlight.   ·        Wildlife Habitat and Biodiversity:  Many beneficial insects, such as beetles, spiders, and caterpillars, use fallen leaves for shelter during the colder months.  Additionally, some pollinators, like certain species of butterflies and moths, overwinter in leaf litter at various life stages (as eggs, larvae, or pupae).    ·        Soil Health and Structure:  Decomposing leaves foster a rich environment for soil-dwelling organisms like earthworms and beneficial microbes, which help maintain healthy soil structure.  A layer of leaves can also protect the soil from wind and water erosion, preserving the garden's topsoil and preventing nutrient loss.   ·        Reduced Garden Maintenance:  By leaving leaves in the garden, you save time and effort compared to raking, bagging, and disposing of them.   ·        Environmental Benefits:  Instead of bagging leaves and sending them to landfills where they decompose anaerobically and produce methane, leaving them in place or composting them reduces waste.  Avoiding the use of leaf blowers or other motorized equipment also helps reduce emissions and noise pollution.   While all of that sounds great, there are some potential downsides to consider.  ·        Damage to Grass and Small Plants:  A thick layer of leaves can create a barrier that blocks sunlight and air circulation, potentially smothering grass and low-growing plants.  This can lead to dead spots or stunted growth in the spring.  Excessive moisture trapped under a dense layer of leaves can encourage fungal growth and root rot in plants that don’t tolerate overly wet conditions.   ·        Pest Habitat:  While leaves provide a winter habitat for beneficial insects, they can also attract and shelter harmful pests, such as slugs, snails, and certain rodents, which may damage plants when they become active.  Also, leaves from trees or plants infected with certain diseases (e.g., leaf spot or mildew) can harbor pathogens that may re-infect plants in the following season.   ·        Appearance and Garden Aesthetics:  Large leaves like those from sycamores or oaks decompose slowly and may remain on the ground longer than desired, delaying spring clean-up.   ·        Potential Impact on Lawns:  If leaves are left in thick layers on grassy areas, they can block sunlight and airflow, leading to yellowing or dying patches of grass.  The buildup of organic material can contribute to a thick thatch layer, which may hinder new grass growth.   So how do you decide which is the best practice for you?  It comes down to strategy and choice.  While it’s beneficial to leave leaves in garden beds and under trees, consider clearing pathways and grassy areas to prevent smothering the grass.  If you have an abundance of leaves, adding some to your compost pile can enhance your compost with nutrient-rich organic matter.  Spread leaves in thin layers to promote faster decomposition and reduce potential smothering.  And avoid leaving leaves from plants with known diseases or pests to prevent re-infestation.   Greenery or Gear:  Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight Summit Sticky Traps for Houseplants As you've moved your potted plants indoors and humidity levels decrease with winter approaching, you may notice an uptick in gnats, whiteflies, and aphids on your indoor plants. There are several effective solutions to address this issue, and one of our favorites is Summit Sticky Traps. These traps work quickly and effectively, are non-toxic, and are free from pesticides.

Blooms & Beyond: Insight from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide: June It was a tough wait for us New England Gardeners, but we’ve arrived.  We are officially past the “last frost date.”  Let the planting and transplanting commence!  Hold on to your stylish gardening hats - here’s your to-do list for this month.    Mulching:  Apply a layer of mulch around your trees, but avoid the mulch volcano.  Mulch volcanoes occur when mulch is applied vertically up the trunk of the tree.  Some homeowners find this aesthetically pleasing, and in other circumstances, mulch is added year after year on top of existing mulch creating the volcano effect.  This will lead to the death of the tree by suffocation.  Tree roots breath and when they are suffocated by large piles of mulch, they send out secondary root systems that grow up and around the base of the tree in search of air.  The small roots get burnt in the summer and winter and can girdle the tree.  Below is a great image by sustainablesaratoga.com depicting the do and don’t of mulching.  If you want to learn more, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI12XNNqldA . Planting:   All veggies should be planted in the ground, or beds, now.  Sow additional carrots, beans, and lettuce for continual harvest.  If you are working with plants that you have grown from seed, be sure to thin them appropriately, as listed on seed package, for proper growth and a better harvest.  Plant your summer-blooming flower bulbs now.  It’s a great time to increase your curb appeal and beautify your backyard sanctuary with fresh new annuals, perennials, and native plants.   Fertilizing:  In Massachusetts, June is a good time to fertilize several types of plants and trees to support their growth and health. Here are some recommendations:   Trees and Shrubs · Deciduous Trees: Fertilize trees like maples, oaks, and elms. Use a balanced fertilizer or one higher in nitrogen to promote leafy growth.   ·  Evergreens: Conifers such as pines, spruces, and firs benefit from a fertilizer formulated specifically for evergreens, which often have a higher acid content.   · Flowering Shrubs: Shrubs like hydrangeas, roses, and azaleas benefit from a balanced fertilizer. For azaleas and rhododendrons, use an acid-loving plant fertilizer.   Lawn · Grass: Lawns typically receive a spring fertilization, but a lighter application in June can help maintain growth and green color. Use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer to avoid excessive growth.   Flowering Plants ·  Annuals: Fertilize annual flowers like petunias, marigolds, and impatiens every few weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer to support continuous blooming.   ·  Perennials: Established perennials, such as daylilies, hostas, and coneflowers, benefit from a balanced fertilizer applied in June to support summer growth.   Vegetable Garden ·  Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplants: Use a balanced fertilizer or one higher in phosphorus to support fruiting.   ·  Leafy Greens (lettuce, spinach, kale): Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to promote leaf growth.   ·  Root Crops (carrots, beets, radishes): A balanced fertilizer is suitable to support root development.   Fruit Trees and Berries ·  Apple and Pear Trees: Use a balanced or nitrogen-rich fertilizer to support growth.   ·  Stone Fruits (peaches, plums, cherries): These trees can also benefit from a balanced fertilizer.   · Berry Bushes (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries): Blueberries prefer acidic soil, so use a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Raspberries and strawberries can benefit from a balanced fertilizer.   Tips for Fertilizing ·  Soil Test: Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient deficiencies and pH levels. This will help you choose the right type of fertilizer. ·  Watering: Water thoroughly before and after applying fertilizer to help it penetrate the soil and reach the roots. ·   Avoid Over-fertilization: Follow the recommended application rates to avoid damaging plants and trees. ·   Ask a New England Nurseries staff member for recommendations.  We carry a vast array of fertilizer options.     Watering : In regards to container planters, you’ll want to make sure they have adequate drainage and check them more frequently during hot spells.  Container gardens and hanging plants could require watering a couple of times per day on really hot and dry days.  As for you garden beds, shrubs, and trees, it is better to water thoroughly a few times per week over small bursts of water daily.  To establish a deep and healthy root system, you want to water slowly and deeply and let the soil dry slightly between waterings.  Make sure you don’t overwater.   Pruning and dead-heading: Dead-heading is essentially removing dead or spent blooms from flowering plants.  This can encourage new growth in plants.  So, deadhead any perennials that have retained spent blooms from last year.  After Rhododendrons bloom, remove their dead flowering stalks.  Watch out for any new buds.  You don’t want to accidentally remove those.  And, check your basil plants daily for flower buds.  Remove buds immediately and you’ll have nice full basil plants with a continuous supply of tasty leaves.  If you’ve not yet pruned your dogwood, forsythia, or lilacs make sure you do that as soon as possible.  Next year's blooms develop on this year's growth, and you don’t want to later prune off next year’s buds.    Our Monthly Top 10 This month is Perennial Month, so we’ll be talking about sun and heat-loving perennials.  As a bonus, the plants listed below are easy-care, attractive, loved by pollinators, and most are drought-tolerant. 1.  Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) : This hardy perennial is known for its large, daisy-like flowers with prominent cone-shaped centers. It blooms from midsummer to fall and attracts butterflies and bees. Coneflowers are drought-tolerant and easy to grow in full sun.   2.  Daylily (Hemerocallis): Daylilies are renowned for their vibrant and varied flower colors. Each bloom lasts only one day, but a well-established clump can produce flowers over several weeks. They are very resilient and can withstand hot, sunny conditions.   3.  Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia): This perennial has silvery, aromatic foliage and tall spikes of small, lavender-blue flowers. Blooming from mid-summer to autumn, it adds a touch of airy elegance to gardens and thrives in hot, dry conditions.   4.  Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) : Black-eyed Susans feature bright yellow petals with dark brown centers. They bloom profusely from mid-summer to fall and are beloved for their cheerful appearance and ease of care. They are excellent for attracting pollinators.   5.  Sedum (Sedum, various): These succulent perennials come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Sedum is heat and drought-tolerant, making it ideal for sunny, dry spots.   6.  Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Known for its fragrant purple flower spikes and aromatic foliage, lavender is a staple in sunny gardens. It blooms in late spring to early summer and is used in aromatherapy and culinary applications. Lavender prefers well-drained soil and full sun.   7.  Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): Yarrow features flat-topped clusters of small, long-lasting flowers in shades of white, yellow, pink, and red. Its fern-like foliage is aromatic. Yarrow is highly drought-tolerant and thrives in poor soils under full sun.   8.  Bee Balm (Monarda didyma): Bee Balm is known for its vibrant red, pink, purple, or white tubular flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It has aromatic foliage and blooms from mid to late summer.   9.  Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum): Shasta Daisies have classic white petals with yellow centers and bloom from early summer to fall. They are easy to grow, drought-tolerant, and make great cut flowers.   10.  Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii): Catmint has aromatic, gray-green foliage and produces spikes of lavender-blue flowers from late spring to early fall. It is very hardy, drought-tolerant, and attracts pollinators.   Gardening Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at Edible Landscaping.  Edible landscaping has emerged as a popular trend in gardening, seamlessly blending aesthetics with functionality.  One person’s annuals or perennials are another person’s garnish, snack, or dinner, with this innovative approach to garden design.  The idea is to incorporate fruit trees, vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers into traditional landscaping, creating a beautiful and productive environment.  Moreover, this trend reflects a broader shift towards sustainability and self-sufficiency, as people seek to minimize their carbon footprint and connect more deeply with their food sources.  With its unique combination of visual appeal and practicality, edible landscaping is redefining the boundaries of modern gardening, making it both a stylish and sensible choice for garden enthusiasts.  Curious about trying your hand at Edible Landscaping?  Check out the list below for a few ideas on where you might start.  Fruit Trees and Shrubs ·  Apple Trees: Varieties like ‘Honeycrisp’ and ‘McIntosh’ are well-suited to Massachusetts’ climate. ·  Pear Trees: Varieties like ‘Bartlett’ and ‘Bosc’ are hardy and productive. ·  Blueberries: Northern highbush varieties such as ‘Bluecrop’ and ‘Jersey’ are excellent choices. ·  Raspberries: Varieties like ‘Heritage’ and ‘Boyne’ perform well in this region.   Vegetables ·  Tomatoes: Heirloom varieties like ‘Brandywine’ and ‘Cherokee Purple’ can be highly productive. ·  Leafy Greens: Kale, spinach, and Swiss chard are robust and grow well in Massachusetts. ·  Squash: Both summer varieties like ‘Zucchini’ and winter varieties like ‘Butternut’ thrive here.   Herbs ·  Basil: Great for summer growth, particularly varieties like ‘Genovese’. ·  Thyme: Hardy and perennial, making it a low-maintenance choice. ·  Mint: Varieties like spearmint and peppermint are vigorous and aromatic.   Edible Flowers ·  Nasturtiums: These are easy to grow and add a peppery flavor to salads. ·  Calendula: Not only are they beautiful, but their petals can be used in teas and salads. ·  Daylilies: Both the buds and flowers are edible and can be used in various dishes.   Nut Trees ·  Hazelnuts: Hardy and productive, they make an excellent addition to edible landscapes. ·  Chestnuts: These trees can thrive in Massachusetts and provide a bountiful harvest. Did You Know? – Fun Plant Facts Camellia sinensis, often referred to as the ‘Mother of Tea’ plants, is the versatile shrub responsible for producing a vast array of popular, and mainstream teas.  Native to East Asia, particularly the regions of China and India, this evergreen plant boasts leaves that can be processed into various types of tea, depending on the methods of cultivation, harvesting, and processing.  From this single species, we derive the world’s major tea varieties: white, green, oolong, black, and Pu-erh tea, each with distinct characteristics and flavor profiles.   The diversity in tea types from Camellia sinensis is largely attributed to the differences in oxidation and processing. White tea, the least processed of all, involves simply withering and drying the young leaves and buds, preserving their delicate flavor and high antioxidant content.  Green tea is slightly more processed, with leaves being quickly steamed or pan-fired to prevent oxidation, resulting in a fresh, grassy taste.  Oolong tea strikes a balance between green and black teas, with partial oxidation giving it a complex, aromatic profile that can range from floral to fruity. Black tea undergoes full oxidation, turning the leaves dark and enhancing their robust, bold flavors.  Finally, Pu-erh tea, unique for its fermentation process, yields a rich, earthy taste that matures over time.  Hot, iced, sugar, milk?  How do you take your tea?  I like them all, and this post is making me thirsty! Greenery or Gear:  Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month’s spotlight isn’t necessarily a plant, but a product for plants: the ever-popular Espoma ‘Tone’ line of organic fertilizers. Each type of Tone Fertilizer is formulated with a particular family of plants, or needs, in mind and addresses those specific requirements.  They all, however, contain beneficial Bio-tone Microbes and long-lasting organics that break down slowly. This organic line is 100% natural and organically approved, safe for people, pets, and plants. They are naturally low in salts, so they won’t burn plants. As an added benefit, they are created in a solar-powered facility, so while you’re nourishing your plants, you’re also doing your part for the planet!   We proudly carry the following Tone products: Bio-tone Starter Plus, Rose-Tone, Citrus-Tone, Berry-Tone, Iron-Tone, Tree-Tone, Holly-Tone, Bulb-Tone, Garden-Tone, Flower-Tone, Tomato-Tone, and Plant-Tone, in 4, 5, 8, 18, and 36-pound bags.